Just now, gotham22 said:

To clarify, this is a screw for the fuel injector mount 

Yes, it clamps or compresses the injector in to the hole in the intake.  The big rubber ring is where the force is applied to the injector body.  It's a loosey-goosey mechanism, not precision.

 Now for the good news. Masked, primed and started painting the engine bay!  Did not buy nearly enough paint so now I have to wait. 

sorry for upside down pics

Thanks Zed. I figure that was probably my only option

Happy to report that I removed the injector holder screw by drilling and tapping. Also removed one of the three studs from the exhaust manifold via welding a nut. The other two snapped even more after welding. Again drill and tap. Fly wheel is off and main seal is next   We are moving end of July beginning of August. I told me wife I am driving to the new house. Now I have to make it happen. 

New paint. Very happy with it

Also painted the block. 

Engine and bay done.  Assembling the front suspension. Finally putting things back on the car!!!
 

 

Having trouble putting the transmission back on.  It seems like no matter what I do I always have a gap and can not fit it flush to the engine.  I tried using longer bolts with washers as spacers to see if I could pull it in and close the gap.  It did work to an extent but not enough to use the actual bolts.It doesn't look like the clutch is interfering with the install.  I do not see any reason why there would be a gap, it looks like I assembled everything correctly.  I know the splines were matching because if I turned the engine crank I saw it turning on the rear side of the transmission.  Anyone seen something like this before?  Any ideas or tricks that I am unaware of.  The engine and transmission are out of the car. It is the same engine and transmission I pulled.  The clutch and pressure plate are new and so is the pilot bushing.  The bushing is the same size as the one I removed. The engine is on a hoist.   

 

 

you are just not getting the input shaft to fit the pilot, re check the clutch install with the installation tool. when tightening up the pressure plate you want to make sure its centered, it can go in and droop a bit. I suspect the plastic tool is part of the problem, anyway eye ball the tool to make sure its 90 degrees and goes in easy.

I hope you have a proper jack stand for the trans, as you go in try to make sure the gap is even all around then you just have to shake and work it on. I used guide bolts (long bolts with the heads cut off, sloted for removal) on diagonal sides to help hold the trans in place while doing this. it will go but you absolutely do not want to force it by using bolts to pull it up. Hopefull the pilot bush is not bunged up, that may add to the problem.

oh and I assume the dowel pin are installed ? they provide for a precise alignment of the bell housing to the block.

 

Edited July 28, 20204 yr by Dave WM

Thanks Dave,That makes sense.  I have the bell housing solid dowel installed.  The hollow ones were mangled by PO.  Do I need to get new ones or will the solid one suffice? I will remove and re-add the clutch today.  I have another pilot bushing so if this one is damaged I can replace it.

 

 

Spend most of your time sliding back and forth under the car and crawling out from under the car and looking at each side of this gap.  The two sides have to be parallel.  If they are parallel then the input shaft will be centered.  Close is not good enough, make it exact. Take measurements if your eyeball is not calibrated.  It's important.  It makes all the difference.  Use the bolts to get the gap straight but not to pull the transmission in.