3 hours ago, gotham22 said:

It appears that the floor pans are 16 gauge.  Does that sound correct?  Anyone know a good source to but sheet metal?  I found this site - https://www.onlinemetals.com.  I guess it is as good as any.

 

Where did you get that the floors are 16 gauge? Did you measure, or is that from googling? Either way, I would expect them to be 20 gauge without looking.

I used a sheet metal gauge


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You sure it didn't have a burr on it or something? My floor conveniently has a huge hole in it, and so I was able to measure my own (76 280Z) to compare, and in the spot I measured it, it came out to about 0.81-0.84mm (could have been an area that was stretched), which would actually be 21 gauge, and not 20, but nevertheless, 20 is what you should go with. 16 gauge is 1.5mm, and it's going to be a pain to work with, on top of being needlessly heavy. As a rule, you can assume that most of the sheet metal on the car is 20 gauge.

Here's a chart that converts gauge to thickness in mm and inches:

http://www.custompartnet.com/sheet-metal-gauge

Ok so I mis measured.

Looks like it is 18g.


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Anyone have a good site they buy their metal from?


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I buy steel from a local family owned shop. They will cut, brake, drill and shear for reasonable prices

FInally good news!!  I did  a compression  test this morning and all 6 cylinders read 160. Whew! time to start preparing for the engine to come out...

 

 

Haven’t update this thread in awhile but I was able to get some work done. Started removing engine parts to pull the engine. Radiator, fan, canister, alternator and starter are all out. Along with other bits and pieces.

Two things I am dealing with now. When trying to remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold two of the three bolts broke. Do you guys know of a what to fix this? Is it fixable?

Second thing, when I am not working on the car I have to covered using a cover craft car cover. We have had some pretty heavy rains here the past week. When I removed the car cover and opened the passenger door there was about an inch of water sitting directly under where the seat would be. Any idea where that could be leaking from? I know the car covers are not water proof but that seems like a lot of water and has me kind of stumped


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Never attempt to remove rusted hardware without heating it first, a plumbers torch and mapp gas do a good job dirt cheap.

Now that they are broken,,, remove the manifold (torch), inspect the damage, if there is a nub to grab on then use vise grips and torch, if there is nothing to grab on then you will have to drill them out and use a easy out, if that doesn't work then drill it entirely and tap it for 8x1.25mm

2 hours ago, gotham22 said:

Second thing, when I am not working on the car I have to covered using a cover craft car cover. We have had some pretty heavy rains here the past week. When I removed the car cover and opened the passenger door there was about an inch of water sitting directly under where the seat would be. Any idea where that could be leaking from? I know the car covers are not water proof but that seems like a lot of water and has me kind of stumped

Angle of the car plays a factor.  Water just flows downhill.

You said that you opened the passenger door but didn't say that the water was only under the passenger seat.  Anyway, my car had a leaky windshield seal.  It leaked in to the channel between the window and the seal from the outside, then flowed to other spots and leaked back out on the inside.  I realized what was happening when I saw water beading up at the inside corner of the seal and leaking in when I cornered.

Tzagi1 - thanks for the help. I did use on blaster and heat and they still broke.

As for the water that was the only place I found the water. But as you said it flows downhill. I guess I could get in the car while someone hoses it down to see where the water is coming in from




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