Sunline Posted November 14, 2018 Share #157 Posted November 14, 2018 Looking great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7 Posted November 21, 2018 Author Share #158 Posted November 21, 2018 Cleaned up and re-built both rear brake cylinders. Installed the rear brake assembly with new brake shoes and springs for the passenger side rear strut. Also got the chrome in last week. They were pretty quick, taking just over two weeks. I think I will keep them wrapped up until I am ready to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7 Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share #159 Posted November 26, 2018 Got one of the front calipers rebuilt (Before and After pic below, kind of), Funny thing, when you order front brake and rear brake shoes, you get 2 sets in each box. When you order a caliper rebuild kit, you only get a kit for one caliper. What's up with that? So, need to order another caliper rebuild kit. I will order those along with the new brake flex hose lines. I put the short brake line that is near the backing plate on. Those look pretty cool, so thought I would take a pic. Started cleaning up the fuel and brake lines. Will send those out to plate shortly. Taking the Brake drums and rotors to get turned tomorrow. Hopefully the brake drums will be OK. They have some deep grooves in them. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 26, 2018 Share #160 Posted November 26, 2018 What was the refinishing process for the front calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7 Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share #161 Posted November 26, 2018 7 hours ago, Patcon said: What was the refinishing process for the front calipers? First I did an overall clean with paint thinner just to remove the grease and brake dust. Then wire wheeled each caliper side to remove all of the rust. Then high temp clear coat. I was able to get most of the rust off with the wire wheel. I had to use my drill with a small attachment to get into the crevices. The tricky thing (kind of dangerous really) is getting the pistons out to replace the internal seal. The first thing I did is use some Kroil on the piston edge to help loosen it. After letting it sit for a day, I used compressed air to force out the piston. On the slave side, there are two feed lines. I put my finger over one hole and used compressor air in the other to force the piston out. The important thing was to aim the piston at a 'backstop' because once it lets loose, it really flies. It is very tempting to watch the process, but I pretty much just turn my head away and pulse the compressed air till I hear the loud 'pop'. The master side is a bit more tricky. I had to plug the main feed line and the bleed line hole with threaded bolts, then repeat the process. After the pistons were out, I used lacquer thinner to clean off most of the gummy residue. For the residue that would not come off with the lacquer thinner, I lightly cleaned the area with 1000 grit sand paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 26, 2018 Share #162 Posted November 26, 2018 1 hour ago, motorman7 said: First I did an overall clean with paint thinner just to remove the grease and brake dust. Then wire wheeled each caliper side to remove all of the rust. Then high temp clear coat. I was able to get most of the rust off with the wire wheel. I had to use my drill with a small attachment to get into the crevices. The tricky thing (kind of dangerous really) is getting the pistons out to replace the internal seal. The first thing I did is use some Kroil on the piston edge to help loosen it. After letting it sit for a day, I used compressed air to force out the piston. On the slave side, there are two feed lines. I put my finger over one hole and used compressor air in the other to force the piston out. The important thing was to aim the piston at a 'backstop' because once it lets loose, it really flies. It is very tempting to watch the process, but I pretty much just turn my head away and pulse the compressed air till I hear the loud 'pop'. The master side is a bit more tricky. I had to plug the main feed line and the bleed line hole with threaded bolts, then repeat the process. After the pistons were out, I used lacquer thinner to clean off most of the gummy residue. For the residue that would not come off with the lacquer thinner, I lightly cleaned the area with 1000 grit sand paper. Thanks What high temp clear did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7 Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share #163 Posted November 26, 2018 45 minutes ago, Patcon said: What high temp clear did you use? I like the Duplicolor Brand. I get it from Pep Boys which has a nice paint selection. https://duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerz Posted November 26, 2018 Share #164 Posted November 26, 2018 I love this thread, and am intending to keep the flat tops on my 1977-built, UK-model, 260Z when it is (eventually) restored. In respect of the front calipers, I have a pair of genuine NOS LH and RH ones, where the images below could be used as a reference for people completing stock restorations. They have a matt, grey, finish in stock form, with various green, blue, black and red paint spots daubed at various locations (see images). One of the calipers also has some white paint daubed on the front of the pad. The caliper bolts have black paint daubed on the bolt heads. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 26, 2018 Share #165 Posted November 26, 2018 2 hours ago, motorman7 said: I like the Duplicolor Brand. I get it from Pep Boys which has a nice paint selection. https://duplicolor.com/product/engine-enamel-with-ceramic Perfect, thanks. They look really nice like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7 Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share #166 Posted November 26, 2018 2 hours ago, jerz said: . In respect of the front calipers, I have a pair of genuine NOS LH and RH ones, where the images below could be used as a reference for people completing stock restorations. They have a matt, grey, finish in stock form, with various green, blue, black and red paint spots daubed at various locations (see images). One of the calipers also has some white paint daubed on the front of the pad. The caliper bolts have black paint daubed on the bolt heads. Interesting. So looks like a matte grey paint on the steel. Probably to prevent corrosion. The matte grey kind of makes them look like aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gav240z Posted November 27, 2018 Share #167 Posted November 27, 2018 VHT Cast Iron enamel also looks good! On these MK63 4 pots. https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15738-sumitomo-fia-mk-63-caliper-pistons/?do=findComment&comment=196389 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorman7 Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share #168 Posted November 27, 2018 That cast iron enamel looks nice! May have to pick some up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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