We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

[Captain Obvious]

10 hours ago, motorman7 said:

 you were right about the filter being too long.  Looks like I will need to find a different method.

I think I've got some of those injector filters in a box somewhere around here. If I get a chance, maybe I'll mess around a little.

I still think the ticket would be to solder up some new brass screen repros. What? Not comfortable enough with a soldering iron or something?   

[Zed Head]

How about a piece of Brillo pad.

Actually, McMaster Carr has some neat stuff.  Just thinking outside the automotive box.

https://www.mcmaster.com/mufflers

https://www.mcmaster.com/breather-vents

 

Edited February 13, 2019 by Zed Head

[jayhawk]

As was suggested earlier, might have to make it out of brass mesh like this:

https://www.twpinc.com/40-mesh-brass-010

wrap around a dowel and solder maybe?  (beyond my skills and tools but a great project for someone else ?

[motorman7]

These are probably pretty close.  Made these at my desk at work.

Also, looks like stainless steel would work well in a gasoline environment.

http://hayata.com/stainless-steel-chemical-resistance-chart-f-l/

 

Edited February 13, 2019 by motorman7

[Patcon]

the finer mesh looks like it is more appropriate for this application

[w3wilkes]

Wonder if anything here can be repurposed? ?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brass+pipe+screens&hvadid=241929059160&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029961&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3326462611205813048&hvtargid=kwd-19245041717&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_48yir4no39_e

[Captain Obvious]

3 hours ago, motorman7 said:

These are probably pretty close.  Made these at my desk at work.

Yup. Just like that.  Get yourself some thin sheet and cut some narrow strips that you can fold over into a "V" and fit over the ends. At this point, you're almost there!!

The big advantage I see of using brass over the stainless is sealing the seams and attaching the end welts. If you have access to a vacuum furnace, you could braze the stainless mesh. (But I still think soldering brass would be easier.)

 https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-wire-cloth  

[Zed Head]

Of course, this is just a fun distraction, right?  Not really worried about function.  There's a ton of other ways to get filtered fuel to the carbs.

[Terrapin Z]

I never did mess around with the flat tops much. These are pretty fragile filters. Just thought I would check them out following your post.

I agree with Zed Head, many other ways to filter. Quite a challenge to try and reproduce these, IMO. I can appreciate your attempt. 

[Zed Head]

Many carbs use a sintered brass filter (might have been discussed, there's a lot of pages in this thread...).  Find the right size and devise a way to seal and you might have a more durable replica filter.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-162-500?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-holley&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2f6ynZa84AIVg-NkCh0buwKbEAQYASABEgJZG_D_BwE

These guys have a huge selection -

http://www.hengko.com/

[motorman7]

50 minutes ago, Terrapin Z said:

. These are pretty fragile filters. Just thought I would check them out following your post.

I agree with Zed Head, many other ways to filter. Quite a challenge to try and reproduce these, IMO. I can appreciate your attempt. 

 

 

I am pretty impressed that you have two 'reasonable' looking filters here.  Of the 6 carbs that I had at my disposal, 4 of the filters were completely disintegrated.  And, I think your two are better than mine.

 

It will probably be about a month before I put the carbs on so I have a little time to piece something together before then. Below are pics of the SST 60, 80 and 150 mesh.  The 150 mesh appears to be more like the brass mesh size.  The 80 mesh (in the middle) is actually pretty nice because it has reasonably small holes and is still somewhat stiff. The 150 mesh has opening size of .0041" while the 80 mesh is .006", 50 mesh is .011".

[Zed Head]

I know you're probably restoring so want things to look right.  So maybe an extra filer is not describable.  But if the new filters, which are invisible once installed, don't filter to a finer level or the same level as the "strainer" aren't they kind of pointless?  I wonder what the material on the inside of the strainer is?  This is from 1972, I can't find earlier stuff.