More suspension pics

Today I installed the 'Vintage Dash'  240Z dash onto the dash frame.  This is a first time install for me and it seemed to go fairly well.  Removing all the instruments and wiring, removing the old dash and installing the new dash took less than 3 hours.  It is was not too difficult.  In regards to the fit, the dash fit very well on the frame. It was a bit snug and required exerting some force to hold the dash to the frame while screwing things together, but that is the way it should be.  The holes in the dash lined up well with the frame and I had no issues.  I would however, recommend clearing the dash screw holes before putting the dash over the frame.  The holes can be a bit hard to locate if you try to find them when you have the dash over the frame.  I was very tempted to use some spray adhesive, but there was not any on the original (except near the glove box) so I went without glue.  The look and fit are very good.  I like the shape of the dash over the water, oil and clock instruments and the texture is reasonable.  It still does not match the original, but does look very good.  The only negative comment I have about the dash is that they should have left flaps around the glove box and the heater cutout similar to the original.  Neither of these areas is visible until you open the glove box, then you will see that the dash flaps do not go over the glove box stiffening rails.  What I will probably do here is spray the flanges black and put some black silicon in the gap between the dash and the flange.  That way the missing flaps will not be so obvious.  Otherwise, the dash looks great.  I will post about the instrument fit when I get to that step.  The cost here is about half the cost of 'Just Dashes' and the appearance is great.  I would also say that it is  easier to install the 'Vintage Dashes' dash than it is to package up your dash and ship it to 'Just Dashes'.  Pics are below.

Also, I am guessing that @jayhawkhad some work done on his Tachometer or someone in Japan is Psychic

So far that new dash looks fantastic. Looking forward to getting all the gauges and other stuff installed.

@jayhawk here (AKA Bob). That tach is a real mystery.  I know that neither I nor anyone else has ever pulled that tach out. And there are no entries in the logbook about that.  Could there have been a Japanese QC inspector named Bob? ??

very weird...

I’m glad the dash is looking good. I’ll pass on your comments to the Vintage Dashes guys.   

Edited October 1, 20186 yr by jayhawk

1 hour ago, jayhawk said:

@jayhawk here (AKA Bob). That tach is a real mystery.  I know that neither I nor anyone else has ever pulled that tach out. And there are no entries in the logbook about that.  Could there have been a Japanese QC inspector named Bob? ??

very weird...

That's funny.  Trying to get my head around that.

Rich,

The dash looks great!

On another topic, when you get all that hardware plated. How do you prevent it from rusting? I thought what you did was de-grease it and strip it. Then you take it to get plated. It seems like it would be prone to rusting while it is waiting to go to the plater.

Rich you are doing a fantastic job!   I sure wish I restored my Z AFTER I found this site!   The hardest thing I had was trying to get the correct bolts, nuts or washers after I stripped or broke several trying to get them out.   Also finding the correct size fuel lines using the original clamps is no easy chore.   I sure wish I knew where you get some of these!  

7 minutes ago, Patcon said:

when you get all that hardware plated. How do you prevent it from rusting? I thought what you did was de-grease it and strip it. Then you take it to get plated. It seems like it would be prone to rusting while it is waiting to go to the plater.

         The parts would not develop much rust from the time that the parts are stripped until the plater receives the parts.  The acid dip that the plater does would be enough to to remove any mild surface rust that  developed in the time frame between the stripping and the plater processing the parts. Usually less than one week.  (This is the way I used to process parts with the old plating shop)

That being said, I am now using a new shop that does a better job and I send them parts that are somewhat dirty, greasy and rusty. ( I do a quick wire wheel strip on parts that are especially bad, otherwise I just toss them in the shipping box).  All paint must be removed, but light grease/oil and rust is acceptable to them.  The new shop processes the crappy parts and their work is impressive.  Their work is consistent and looks to be the correct color, shine and rainbowing.  The cost is $140 for as much as you can squeeze into a Large USPS shipping box.  It really is a great deal.  It is worth it just for the time it saves me at the wire wheel.  Plus, my fingers and limbs are still in tact.

9 minutes ago, 240Z73 said:

 The hardest thing I had was trying to get the correct bolts, nuts or washers after I stripped or broke several trying to get them out.   Also finding the correct size fuel lines using the original clamps is no easy chore.   I sure wish I knew where you get some of these!  

I have had to do my share of drilling and tapping on broken and stripped screw...it happens.  I like 'Newco Products' for the fuel lines and clamps are typically from e-bay or ones that I have collected over the years.

27 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

         The parts would not develop much rust from the time that the parts are stripped until the plater receives the parts.  The acid dip that the plater does would be enough to to remove any mild surface rust that  developed in the time frame between the stripping and the plater processing the parts. Usually less than one week.  (This is the way I used to process parts with the old plating shop)

That being said, I am now using a new shop that does a better job and I send them parts that are somewhat dirty, greasy and rusty. ( I do a quick wire wheel strip on parts that are especially bad, otherwise I just toss them in the shipping box).  All paint must be removed, but light grease/oil and rust is acceptable to them.  The new shop processes the crappy parts and their work is impressive.  Their work is consistent and looks to be the correct color, shine and rainbowing.  The cost is $140 for as much as you can squeeze into a Large USPS shipping box.  It really is a great deal.  It is worth it just for the time it saves me at the wire wheel.  Plus, my fingers and limbs are still in tact.

Thanks,

I struggle to plate larger parts. I do fine on bolts and such, but it is difficult to get good plating on larger or odd shaped parts. There is a plater that is not too far away I may talk to

9 minutes ago, Patcon said:

 

I struggle to plate larger parts. I do fine on bolts and such, but it is difficult to get good plating on larger or odd shaped parts. There is a plater that is not too far away I may talk to

Yes, I have the same problem as well.  I only do my own plating when I have a small quantity of small parts.

29 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Yes, I have the same problem as well.  I only do my own plating when I have a small quantity of small parts.

That may be where I end up eventually.