We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

[motorman7]

5 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I know you're probably restoring so want things to look right.  So maybe an extra filer is not describable.  But if the new filters, which are invisible once installed, don't filter to a finer level or the same level as the "strainer" aren't they kind of pointless?  I wonder what the material on the inside of the strainer is?  This is from 1972, I can't find earlier stuff.

True.  And as @jayhawk noted above, sounds like some re-builders don't see the filter as necessary.  

[Terrapin Z]

45 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

I am pretty impressed that you have two 'reasonable' looking filters here.  Of the 6 carbs that I had at my disposal, 4 of the filters were completely disintegrated.  And, I think your two are better than mine.

It will probably be about a month before I put the carbs on so I have a little time to piece something together before then. Below are pics of the SST 60, 80 and 150 mesh.  The 150 mesh appears to be more like the brass mesh size.  The 80 mesh (in the middle) is actually pretty nice because it has reasonably small holes and is still somewhat stiff. The 150 mesh has opening size of .0041" while the 80 mesh is .006", 50 mesh is .011".

 

I was surprised as well. I was never going to use these as I have a 70 with 4 screw carbs. The PO of the 73 had bead blasted the entire carbs and said they were rebuilt, but a quick inspection indicated they were not rebuilt just cleaned up visually. I had never thought any of the flat tops were worth much for resale. I still kept them thinking some parts might be needed by someone. 

I would think the 180 mesh you have is closer to the stock mesh. As for the filters being unnecessary, I disagree.  All cars, new and old ones have some sort of fuel filter. To each there own I guess. 

I might have to try these on eBay.......

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

I know you're probably restoring so want things to look right.  So maybe an extra filer is not describable.  But if the new filters, which are invisible once installed, don't filter to a finer level or the same level as the "strainer" aren't they kind of pointless?  I wonder what the material on the inside of the strainer is?  This is from 1972, I can't find earlier stuff.

This was my reasoning for suggesting the finer mesh

[motorman7]

Cleaning and polishing the aluminum mags now.  The back side was pretty corroded.  Cleaned it up a bit before taking to Discount Tire to have the old tires removed.  With the tires removed, I will start polishing these up.

[Patcon]

31 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Cleaning and polishing the aluminum mags now.  The back side was pretty corroded.  Cleaned it up a bit before taking to Discount Tire to have the old tires removed.  With the tires removed, I will start polishing these up.

What techniques are you using?

[Gav240z]

+1 on technique, I've thought about using vapour blasting to clean the wheels (remove all old brake dust/road grime etc..) and then have a fresh surface ready to polish. Looks like you're using a mechanical method to clean these?

[motorman7]

Technique is pretty old school.  No vapor blasting here.  

For the Back side which was pretty caked, I attached an old wire wheel from my bench grinder to my Makita angle grinder.  It worked great.  Plenty of power and RPM's.  It cut through the corrosion pretty quick without eating up the aluminum.  Then I Used my cordless drill with the little conical wire brush attachment and got the crevices.

For the front, I used small wire wheels on the slots.  Then I used sandpaper, then polishing compound, then Mothers Power Ball to finish out.   I used 220 grit on the road rash that was on the lip.  Otherwise it takes forever to smooth things out.  Then I used 500, then 1000, then 1500 grit on the entire front of the rim.  I sanded mostly in a radial direction.  Then used the Dark Gray polishing compound with polishing wheel attached to my $18 Harbor Freight 3000 RPM corded drill.  After that I went over it again with the finer white polishing compound.  After that I used the Mothers power ball along with the Mothers polish and then wiped clean.  It takes about 2 hours per wheel going through the whole process.  Also use the sandpaper and polish on the slots.

So, that's it.  

[Patcon]

Any concerns about using a steel brush on the aluminum wheels and causing rust stains?

[motorman7]

Any concerns about using a steel brush on the aluminum wheels and causing rust stains?

Never thought of that. (not sure if I've ever seen that) Would only be an issue for the back side. Maybe I'll hit it with some gloss clear just in case. Wouldn't hurt and would actually make it easier to clean

Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[motorman7]

Got two of the Bridgestones mounted, 175/80R14's.  That's pretty hard to find.

Edited February 18, 2019 by motorman7

[jayhawk]

1 hour ago, motorman7 said:

Got two of the Bridgestones mounted, 175/80R14's.  That's pretty hard to find.

 

For those that are curious,  when I purchased this Z new in 1973,  it had Bridgestone RD150 175SR14 tires (per the original spare Motorman7 has just cleaned up).  In my desire for authenticity,  and since Bridgestone no longer makes the RD150, I started searching for any Bridgestone tires of the correct original size. 

Bridgestone does not sell that size in the US anymore, but they do in Europe and Australia.  (B330 EVO 175/80 14 models)  I contacted several sellers in the UK, but none would ship to the US.  Finally found a seller on the eBay UK site, who would ship from France!  Only took a couple of weeks to get here.  I have the other two at my home in N. California, and will be taking them to Motorman7 in a couple of weeks.

In my signature block below is the car in 1973 with those beautiful shinny wheels and the RD150 175/80 14 tires:

Edited February 18, 2019 by jayhawk

[Gav240z]

I am glad they sell them in Australia! I was wondering where I was going to find 14" wheels for my 71 date stamped Topy's to suit my white 71 240z.

My Australian delivered 70 240z, HS30 00150 was fitted with "Aunger Hotwires" and not the steel topy's (I believe dealer fitted) and so the spare tyre is actually of that era. I'll have to check but I believe it's a bridgestone. Kats has already noted I have a "432" style spare wheel tie down for it in the rear. I think HS30 00051 also had jelly bean wheels like these (probably Aunger branded) new from dealer in place of the original caps + steelies.

I've got to great lengths to find appropriate date stamped steel wheels for my cars. Although I may clean up the dealer fitted "alloys" like you have done here.