On 8/3/2018 at 9:40 AM, grannyknot said:

What are you using to keep the raised serial # area from rusting, clear coat?

Yes, high temp gloss clear coat for the serial number. 

  On 8/3/2018 at 10:11 AM, 240260280 said:

Double check these areas with your fingernail, it looks like some ring-to-wall interaction took place at one time. It could be simply lighting in the photo

 

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Yes, I checked that when I picked it up from the shop.  I can't even feel a mild depression in this area.  I thought i might feel a ridge or something,but it is as smooth and linear as the rest of the cylinder. 

Got the brass freeze plugs in.  Also got the crankshaft and new bearings in as well.  Probably won't get to the pistons till Monday as the wife has me busy restoring her 1989 Suburban..........Home.  Tile work in the living room. Ugh.  I'd much rather be working on the car in the heat than working on house tile in the cool AC.  Oh well, need to keep the priorities right.  

 

Got the pistons cleaned up.  Installed new rings and connecting rod bearings.

Got the head attached to block with No.1 Piston and Cam positioned at TDC.  

 

Motorman7

  project looks great  it would be greatly appreciated if you could take a minuete and locate the fuel pump relay ( relays) and tell me where it was located and possibly a pic and the wire colors ( want to unplug mine) even using the FSM cant seem to identify it amoung the many in the right hand footwell

  as I have a 73  12/72 build date did the internal reg alt upgrade - no electric fuel pump on the car-- but still getting the battery draw

thank you in advance

I apoligize not trying to hijack the thread

but there is not any info i can find on the exact location of the fuel pump relay on a 73

fwiw my 73 still has the flat tops   

  On 8/12/2018 at 10:53 PM, pontiacguy said:

I apoligize not trying to hijack the thread

but there is not any info i can find on the exact location of the fuel pump relay on a 73

fwiw my 73 still has the flat tops   

Referencing the manual indicates that there is no relay lined for it, it pulls power off the b/w line which is switched power, then runs power all the way to the pump in the rear.

Placing a relay in that system would be ideal.

 

@motorman7 I have a spare airbox for that style SU if you need one. ?

Hi @pontiacguy,  I have these two pics plus I kept the assembly in tact (for now) so will try and take pics of that and post it.  Hops this helps

And pics from the paint shop.  This is moving along nicely.  Car just came back from media blasting.  Looks like we will will be welding in a new hatch panel and both rear doglegs.  

It always amazes me to see rust like this, even on a clean Z!!! What does he do to prevent rust between the body and the tail light panel?

Motorman7

Thank you yea that helps im assuming the fuel pump relay in the pic  is the one with the stamping on the cover

as FSM as posted above shows no relay-  maybe they installed a really at the dealership when they added the elec. fuel pump

the reason i didnt post my question in the electrical section is because the car you are restoring is close to my 73 which is originaly a southern cal car and close build date  mine 12/72 and mine also had the added on dealer air conditioning

that said--- did they use any relays for that?

the other reason is i figured you had the harnesses out of the car --so following the wires would be easier than in the car

all in all if you would be kind enough to identify-- all-- the relays under the foot well that would be a major help not just to me but all the '73 owners out there

the car looks good back from the blaster wish new england cars had the minimal issues that one does  ( thats why i bought a calif Z)

thank you agian Joel

Nearly every S30z has rust in those places. If it doesn't, it's been patched already at some point. Dog leg in particular.