Started today dropping the gas tank. I decided the garage needed to be accessible first so I did some spring cleaning. I jacked the car up and worked on removing the bolt straps keeping the gas tank in place. I’ve read people being able to do this task in 15 minutes, overall it took me 4 hours due to stubborn bolts, hoses, and clamps.

I had to take a few breaks due to the varnish gas giving me headaches. Some of you guys may give advice on the gas tank. Obviously I’m getting a new sending unit due to the corrosion. This tank looks worse than others I’ve seen online in forums.

the punch bowl was adhoc, my gas can was too tall to fit under the car.

Edited September 4, 20186 yr by Mike mcdade

I'm not sure that sending unit for a 77 is still available, a few of us here have save ours by letting it sit over night in CLR, comes out very clean and working (that is if it was working before)

Ditto on the CLR. I had one that took a 48 hour soak to get it clean. Worked perfect afterwards.

Then I’ll give it a try

Punch Bowl for gasoline = 1 pissed off wife.  ?

Another vote for the CLR method that Whee introduced.   I've got a tank soaking with about 3 gallons of vinegar right now.  A very slow method but very economical and not as harsh as Muratic Acid.  Seems to be working but my patience is wearing out.

Yea punch bowl is my mother’s. She has since passed away and I actually grabbed it from the rubbish outside. That is after a 3 gallon bucket filled up.

I plan on installing 16x8 MST wheels with 0 offset and 4.5 backspacing. 

Trying to remove the half shafts from the rear differential, did not expect this to be much of a chore. Decided to liberally spray all the bolts with WD40 and try again tomorow.

 

Sending unit has been sitting in CLR for a few days, about to scrub it down again.

Nice! I'm glad to see the CLR method making the rounds. It's very hard to find replacement sending units on the 280's.

Debating. I want to have this car running again by spring, but fighting the differential is taking time. Me thinks I may keep the differential in, and proceed to brakes, wheels, and engine/trans install and make the differential job for next summer.

If you're going to do wheels and brakes, and suspension, you might consider dropping everything as an assembly.  Struts, control arms, axles, diff will all drop as one sub-assembly.  Drag it out and the nuts and bolts will be easier to get to.

 Control arms are out. Removing the rear diff crossmember the suspension sway bar gave way. Gave me bit of a fright. More repair work.