I was able to reinstall both half-shafts today. Pretty easy work. The gas tank may need to be replaced, the radiator shop I dropped it off at said the varnish is too gunked up. They will try one final time to clean out the tank. May need to find a new gas tank.

2 hours ago, Mike mcdade said:

The gas tank may need to be replaced, the radiator shop I dropped it off at said the varnish is too gunked up. They will try one final time to clean out the tank. May need to find a new gas tank.

 

 

I had a rad shop "boil" a tank twice with no success. They didn't want to try anything else other than their vat.  I used Muriatic acid  and it did the trick but it tends to start rusting again really fast unless you neutralize it quickly.  If the feed and return lines are clogged, paint thinner works well also.

It's a beatiful but quick dance you have to do but so much better than a radiator shops do. I honestly believe the week of natural curing is the best.

ended up buying a used tank from a parts car that was still running in Fort Worth. I cleaned it up. And was able to install it today. Just need 3 more hose clamps and the fuel system is done.

Alright it’s been a minute since my last post. With Covid, military deployment overseas, and the car being 30 minutes away from the house made it difficult to work on the car.

 

that being said, I’m currently rebuilding the drum brakes. Purchased a new kit from the Z-store and will be doing the rebuild this week. Settled on Konig Rewind 16x7s, but I guess they are back ordered for months…. BOOO!

 

at any rate I need to get the car moved. Once the drum brakes are complete I can put it on a trailer and move to my house. It’s pretty dangerous with the driveway being on an incline. I will need the drum brakes working to put it on the trailer safely.

Just noticed that the output and return gas lines are awfully exposed to debris flying up from the rear wheel, you might want to fabricate a sheet metal guard that will give them some protection.

That`s a big tank, you should get a good 400 miles between fill ups.

Pain in the a$$

A trick I do is hold the shoes together whith the springs then put them in the cylyder's slot and push them on. Hold them in place until you get the heads on the pins if that makes sense. Good luck.

I got it off. I did make a big dumb, I now have to replace the steel fuel line.

The positive is I now know what flared wrenches are. Now going to buy 25 feet of steel line and 10mm fittings.

Edited January 11, 20223 yr by Mike mcdade

11 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Just noticed that the output and return gas lines are awfully exposed to debris flying up from the rear wheel, you might want to fabricate a sheet metal guard that will give them some protection.

That`s a big tank, you should get a good 400 miles between fill ups.

I believe this is the plate you are talking about, I haven’t put it back on yet.

Good news. A friend gave me his old rear drums from the 240z I sold him. I plan on taking the brake line from the and swapping the line that has the stripped fitting. Letting it sit with penetrating oil before I use the “correct” wrench to disassemble.

Additional news: there is still some grip left on the fitting bolt I was able to remove it after blasting with penetrating oil.