Stalling issue(under throttle)

[Captain Obvious]

If your original issue was the engine cutting off and the tach dropped to zero when it happened, then the main issue isn't (wasn't) the carbs.

Someone's got to have good pics of using the clear tube to measure the bowl level. Anybody got a handle on some good pics or videos?

I'll ask again for someone out there to loan out a copy of the Just SU's video... Anyone?

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, NA&CH said:

 I have my auto mechanic(electrical) going to search the power pull this weekend.

One of the very first comments was that the electronic parts I had could by my issue.

What do you mean by "electronic parts"?  The ignition system?  And do you mean the stalling issue or the power drain issue?  Sorry, you kind of ran a bunch of things together.

What is the current status of the car?  Does it run and drive?  Maybe restate the problem as it is today.

 

 

 

[NA&CH]

Car runs and idles. Driving was the issue. The car would sputter under throttle. The car has about an 1/8th of a tank of gas. Could that be my issue all along? Never had any issue with the car doing 45-1hr trips in Florida April may heat. I have been reading the dirty su carb tuning. I will try some and try to drive it tomorrow. 

The battery issue is prob from the push button ignition or cig lighter. 

The electronic distributor parts were brought up and I figured changing them out anyway. 

Thanks again,

Chris 

[heyitsrama]

Restored a mk1 Sprite for some dude once, gave the car to him, the same week he started messing with a push button starter, he ended up mixing things up so much that the battery reversed its polarity.

 

Don’t even want to open up that car anymore [emoji25], shame it was a great car to drive tops off.

 

Here’s an SU manual:

http://libgen.io/book/index.php?md5=650D1EFFD49B448501385D3E7FFB0444

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

[NA&CH]

Just played with the adjustment. Seams like the carbs are pulling the same. I will have to take the car out for a drive tomorrow. I have my mechanic friend coming to check out the battery issue. Car idles at 1k. Cant get that lower unless I am doing it wrong. Going by the dirty su adjustment. They both suck the same. The balance screw was down about 3/8" inch and when bliping the throttle the front car did nothing. I backed that out and now the balance screw / bar is sloppy but both make the sucking sound. 

I have yet to adjust the rich lean screws. Have not been able to drive. I am going to get new gas and put some in for the ride tomorrow. See what happens. 

Should the balance bar set screws be "sloppy loose"

Thanks again everyone. 

 

Chris 

[Captain Obvious]

There should always be a small amount of slop in the linkage so the pedal itself is never holding the carbs open. So, "sloppy loose" may be too much, but "some play" is correct. The center screw up on the balance tube is "idle speed", and the screw on the rear carb is "idle balance". The screw on the front carb is only to control how much "throttle boost" is applied by the throttle opener system, but since your throttle opener system is completely disconnected, it should have no effect.

When you say "rich-lean screws" what are you talking about? Are you talking about the nozzle height adjustments under the carbs?

Sure wish I were closer... We'd have you fixed up in short order.  

[NA&CH]

Same here. I'll fly you in for a weekend. Hahaha

Yes the adjustment screws on the bottom of the carbs. I was just tinkering with items and when I adjust the nozzle height nothing changes on the rear carb. I do notice the hose going to the float bowl is stuck. The one that is connected to the choke cable. And typing this probably means I have the choke cables connected while adjusting...The rear carb is cleaned. I set the needle height. The air coming from both carbs is set,(using this term lightly) to 5 on the syncroguage. Not using the unisyn. 

I am going through and reading the carb tuning adjustment threads. I need to watch some videos. 

On the rear carb no matter where the adjustment screw is the car stalls when I pick the the piston. The front carb ig elevates and settles out. The rear always wants to die. 

Chris

[Captain Obvious]

LOL. I do get down to Boca every now and again, and I already looked up the travel time at about two hours each way.

Have you verified (using the clear tube method) that your float levels are close to spec?

[NA&CH]

No I have not. I need to do that and read read read the several pages I have marked about the SU. I picked up tube but way to big. Need some smaller hose. I found the picture with the coat hanger and marking the bowl at 23mm from top of bowl. 

Boca not far from Marco hahaha. 

Does anyone have contact info for Ztherapy. I would like to see if they have the Just Su DVD hell I'll buy a VHS and tube tv... 

Chris 

[siteunseen]

There's tons of video on youtube.com on these carbs.  You might even find the "Just SUs"?

[Captain Obvious]

Ztherapy is on the web here >> http://www.ztherapy.com/  I'm sure you can buy the SU video from them. If you hit the "customer support" link, and then hit the "video" link, there's some talk about costs and stuff. But best to call them and order it over the phone.

I'm assuming this is the clear tube measurement you mentioned with the coat hanger?

So you're on Marco? My neighbor just got back from there. Her was there for two weeks for vacation. Told me it was fantastic!

[NA&CH]

It's been a minute.  I have been busy with work and no time to play. I received the fuel gauge and t for testing. I took a video. I am starting to believe my issue is in the rear of the car. Thoughts on video?

Chris