Hello list... it's been a few years since I posted here last (10 or so!)

So, first the barnfind is my father's 1970 series 1 240z...Yellow over black leather.  HLS30-15369

While not truly a "find" or in a barn (it's in a garage in NJ where it has been sitting since 1980 when he lost his eyesight)
She was purchased new by my father from Bob Sharp Motors (yes of BSR fame) on July 11th, 1970.
The car was built in Dec. 1970 and delivered on Feb. 18th 1971.
Within the first few months, my father had BSR add A/C, put in an exhaust ($140 + $55 install), larger front swaybar, added a rear swaybar, and installed a set of Konis on all 4 corners. 
My father also installed a set of American Racing wheels (All the take off equipment is still in my father's basement).
He stopped driving the car (and driving) in 1980 when he became legally blind.

The car has (wait for it) 24,041 original miles on it.

Now for the questions:  I am planning on having it transported from NJ to my home in Boulder CO, and having Jeff Winter (Rallye/Sport) help with some work to resuscitate her.

So the first question is what transport companies do the collective list recommend for an interstate shipment like this?

(then once the car is here, I'll need to blow out the shellack from the fuel lines, boil the tank, "replace everything rubber" re-jett the carbs for altitude, ect...)
I will be posting followups (and pictures once I get the car out ?

TIA!
-Jason 

I often pondered renting a U-Haul to move a Z, when I was shopping for one.  They'll fit inside one of the larger box trucks.  I would have had to build ramps to roll it up and in and might have had to fashion some tie-down points inside but I think it would have been doable.

I don't have a specific company in mind but make sure that they know how to transport old unibody cars.  Using wheel straps instead of tow hooks and other details like that are important to avoid damage.

They fit great on uhauls dual axle car trailer. If you don't have time I have a few friends that do that bidding service online. Maybe read up on that? That's what I'd do.

My 240 sat for about 10 years with a half tank of shellac. I used a clean 2.5 gallon tank bungeed to the radiator and ran a hose to the fuel pump inlet. It fired for a minute! Wound up being the old points distributor and the trashed fuel system. 

Lots of help from these guys. They know!

Unbolt those tie down hooks from under the front radiator.  Otherwise the transport company might use them.  That would be bad.

7 minutes ago, 87mj said:

Unbolt those tie down hooks from under the front radiator.  Otherwise the transport company might use them.  That would be bad.

And the shipping hooks on the rear bumper. They're not for pulling, just tying down.

 

13 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

They fit great on uhauls dual axle car trailer. If you don't have time I have a few friends that do that bidding service online. Maybe read up on that? That's what I'd do.

My 240 sat for about 10 years with a half tank of shellac. I used a clean 2.5 gallon tank bungeed to the radiator and ran a hose to the fuel pump inlet. It fired for a minute! Wound up being the old points distributor and the trashed fuel system. 

Lots of help from these guys. They know!

I've done the 26hrs drive from NJ to CO 2x in the last 2-4mo... (and don't have a tow-vehicle) - can you put me in contact w/ your friends or their site?

TIA!

1 minute ago, siteunseen said:

And the shipping hooks on the rear bumper. They're not for pulling, just tying down.

So it looks like I'll be pulling the front and rear hooks off, which is good to know.

Which then begs the question, if the car is in the garage (nose in) and needs to be winched out, what is a good strap point?  Rear axle? rear suspension? Open the rear hatch and attach to the rear shock towers?

(there is a 1" curb-type thingie from the garage floor to the driveway that is a PITA to get the car over from my memory of taking it out circa mid-1980's)

I'm sorry for the misunderstanding but my friends haul pre cut steel from different companies. There's a website that does car transport prices. They bid against each other depending on how cloose they are to the car. You'll have to google it. I can't remember the name right off. Sorry

 

I would use the rear suspension. Probably one of the lower control arms to try to minimize the impact on the rear valence. I would be careful if you have to pull very hard or you will tear up the body or the fuel tank.

2 minutes ago, jakay11 said:

So it looks like I'll be pulling the front and rear hooks off, which is good to know.

Which then begs the question, if the car is in the garage (nose in) and needs to be winched out, what is a good strap point?  Rear axle? rear suspension? Open the rear hatch and attach to the rear shock towers?

(there is a 1" curb-type thingie from the garage floor to the driveway that is a PITA to get the car over from my memory of taking it out circa mid-1980's)

A nylon strap around the rear end is what I did. Make sure it stays lower than the rear valance though to keep from bending it.

so these hooks are just for tie-downs... right?  (am assuming it can bend the chassis or do they just pull out/bend the bumper mounting points?)

 

and here some snaps of the car
(only damage is a scratch / dent from when a garage door spring let go pre-safety-wire days)

24,031 miles on odo...

Shipper is coming after 10/24 for a post 11/7 delivery at Rallye/Sport outside of Denver...

Yes those on the rear bumper mounts were for shipping from Japan.  The dealers were supposed to remove them but most didn't from all I've read.  They're easy to take off if you decide to, a lot of the original cars I've seen still have them in place.  I've taken mine off just to make sure know one ever hooks something to one, I think it would pull the whole bumper off. 

I strapped the rear down around the A spindles with those nylon ratchet straps.  Mostly just to keep it from bouncing.  Good luck and have fun.

Edited October 21, 20186 yr by siteunseen