1970 Series1 240z "barnfind"

[HS30-H]

48 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Is your Z really the "26th" Z?  I used the serial number to designate the lineage of somebody's Z, like you're doing with your screen name, and HS30 tried to correct me.

I was right and you were wrong, and '26th-Z' can choose whatever soubriquet he likes as his forum user name.

Simple.

[240260280]

For all of Alan's Alan-isims, you have to love and respect him.  He is a great resource and shares a lot of interesting information that few in the world have.

 

We are a band of brothers and sisters here..... life is too short to waste time bickering. Just look for someone's good points and life will be better for all....

[26th-Z]

And of course you know what today is.  Top of the 49th to you Alan!

[jakay11]

Ok, some updates for those of you who care...

Goal: make car usable (ie, keep the drum rears and not upgrade to discs, and no a v8 will not be installed either.)

So, New Odyssey battery has been ordered (the one from 1986 has given up the ghost)

The gas tank was drained - it was, nearly full tank (which is good and minimizes the risk of internal rust... it smelled pretty funky, but had nearly no shellac/slime/sludge.  Thank you dad for putting in fuel stabilizer! 

The Rear drums were removed, both rear brake cyl shot (the little rubber thingie was crumbling and dry white powder came tumbling out - not THAT  kind, the aluminum oxide / dried brake fluid kind.

Poking into the Master, slave & clutch cylinders - they gunked / slimed / melted the rubber pretty well, and so were replaced with new.

Front Right disk was frozen (and needs help - not sure if can be rebuilt, so an early replacement caliper set found and ordered - I haven't gotten to the left front yet.

The Front solex carb was removed and cleaned and is deemed "good".  The rear solex, well the carb choke is frozen.  Solid. Not sure it can be taken apart to be freed so an early carb set was located and ordered.

 

The clutch was bled & now works again.

 

Still to do: Finish rebuilding / reinstall the carbs. Check driver-side caliper, flush brakes, flush fuel lines.

 

For those of you who want pictures, I have a few (and a few movies too)

 

Google Drive library of photos and videos

In the library, you'll see the period-correct narrow-gage headers (thank you BSR), and the Sempereti tires (from Ireland) are still deemed healthy (?!) mounted on American rims (from Japan)

 

And for those of you who have pedantic tendencies, the state of Colorado has declared that this car is a 1970, based on the mfg build date (that's what they could see when they did the vin check).   Go discuss among yourselves - I'm not arguing it with bureaucrats.

<'flame on/>

 

[CanTechZ]

Good to see your making progress, keep the updates coming. No flames here.

Cheers

Mike

[240260280]

Yes. Keep up the good work!

[w3wilkes]

My 71 (same  month build as your car) after sitting garaged for 14 years had frozen wheel cylinders. If you don't care about pure correctness you can use the 73-76 style cylinders, they're like $50 vs $240 @ MSA (the $165 ones are NLA). Had to do a little bend mod on  the hard line, but that was no big deal.

 

 

[Patcon]

Good progress

[Casey_z]

This is a great story

Please keep it going

[Carl Beck]

Hi Jason:

Great story - thanks for sharing and a really wonderful 240Z. A few comments…

 

 - I can’t see any reason that rear carb can’t be disassembled and restored. I would encourage you to do whatever is necessary to retain all original parts on the Z. Keep all the original take off parts from your Fathers garage with the car as well. For sure, keep the Bob Sharp license plate frame!!

 

- Make sure you keep the original Date Stamped Spark Pug wires and every original hose clamp etc.(the difference on value for an all “original” Z, for all these very small details can be several thousand dollars).

 

- I believe the aluminum wheels are Appliance - not American 

 

- With a 24K original miles and original paint on a one family owned 70 240Z - I would have an Agreed Value of at least $50K with Hagerty. The Z is impossible to replace in terms of its history with you and your family - Nonetheless given todays market you, would most likely spend a year or more looking for a replacement of equal condition, and a year from now that might cost you $65K or more to purchase. (go find another original with 24K miles). 

[jakay11]

On 11/17/2018 at 7:29 PM, w3wilkes said:

My 71 (same  month build as your car) after sitting garaged for 14 years had frozen wheel cylinders. If you don't care about pure correctness you can use the 73-76 style cylinders, they're like $50 vs $240 @ MSA (the $165 ones are NLA). Had to do a little bend mod on  the hard line, but that was no big deal.

 

 

Yup, has the frozen wheel cylinders.  If it wasn't "This Car" I'd probably just do an upgrade to discs.  But this being what it is, I've bitten the bullet and gone and ordered the early ones...

[jakay11]

11 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Hi Jason:

Great story - thanks for sharing and a really wonderful 240Z. A few comments…

 

 - I can’t see any reason that rear carb can’t be disassembled and restored. I would encourage you to do whatever is necessary to retain all original parts on the Z. Keep all the original take off parts from your Fathers garage with the car as well. For sure, keep the Bob Sharp license plate frame!!

 

- Make sure you keep the original Date Stamped Spark Pug wires and every original hose clamp etc.(the difference on value for an all “original” Z, for all these very small details can be several thousand dollars).

 

- I believe the aluminum wheels are Appliance - not American 

 

- With a 24K original miles and original paint on a one family owned 70 240Z - I would have an Agreed Value of at least $50K with Hagerty. The Z is impossible to replace in terms of its history with you and your family - Nonetheless given todays market you, would most likely spend a year or more looking for a replacement of equal condition, and a year from now that might cost you $65K or more to purchase. (go find another original with 24K miles). 

Yup, We're keeping all the original parts, wires, ect.  All the original clamps (which are a PITA to work on!) are going back on too.

(and yes, you are correct on the wheels!)