1976 280z 2+2 running problem

[SeKcGamer]

I parked my z for about a month after rebuilding the engine and driving it to school for about two months. I daily a different car to go to work to save on gas, and when I went to start my car it was dead because I left the radar on. I jump started my car with the daily driven car. But as it charged up enough to start and run, I let it sit for about 15 min. I started to drive it and when the rpms were up and I would let off the gas, the car turns off. I don’t know what the problem would be. (Pictures of rebuild)

[SeKcGamer]

[Zed Head]

Your battery is probably so dead that the alternator can't keep the voltage up at low RPM.  If you went from a stone dead battery to driving the car after getting a jump, that's a n issue.  It puts a heavy load on the alternator also.

We all use jumper cables at will but sometimes they shouldn't be used.  Should have charged the battery up first.  Plus letting a battery go completely dead is bad for it.  They often don't recover.  Check your voltages.

[SeKcGamer]

Your battery is probably so dead that the alternator can't keep the voltage up at low RPM.  If you went from a stone dead battery to driving the car after getting a jump, that's a n issue.  It puts a heavy load on the alternator also.
We all use jumper cables at will but sometimes they shouldn't be used.  Should have charged the battery up first.  Plus letting a battery go completely dead is bad for it.  They often don't recover.  Check your voltages.

Would it also effect the alternator ?


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[Zed Head]

Some people say that it will just by overloading it.  It has to produce high current for as long as it takes to charge the battery.  And most of today's reman alternators aren't very durable to start.

Your hand held voltmeter will tell the story.  The dash meter too, but it's not as accurate.

[SeKcGamer]

I changed the battery(warranty) and the problem still persists. The car will start normally and if you rev the car more than 3k the engine will Bog and the rpm guage will bounce around and eventually die. At that point it always smells like fuel.


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[Zed Head]

That sounds very much like mine when the ignition module was dying.  After it did what you describe you could let it sit for a few seconds and it would restart.  It would run fine if you kept it below about 3000 RPM.  But if you revved it, it would do the same thing.  The tach needle action is a big clue.

[SeKcGamer]

Zed head before I buy, would this fit my car?.


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[Zed Head]

That's the California model, for single pickup distributors.  It might work but you'll lose one pickup.

But I've never heard of IGM-4.  It might not be a Nissan part.  Looks like a risky bet.

Their eBay store sells a lot of parts though and their ratings aren't too bad.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/spark-surplus

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-For-1975-76-Datsun-280z-Electronic-Ignition-Module-IGM-04-/182015405068?oid=182824115436

Edited August 3, 2018 by Zed Head

[Dave WM]

I have a CA car (single pickup) got that module off ebay, think it was the same dealer as the price looks like what I paid. Works fine. A swapped it for the OE one (that was working) just to make sure it worked, kept the OE as a spare.

[SeKcGamer]

Wdym by “pickup” , would it have a negative effect on the car?like what am I losing exactly?.

 

 

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[Zed Head]