California 1978 Datsun 280z Restomod

[Patcon]

7 minutes ago, Kevin McSweeney said:

It's all clear zinc. 

Did they offer yellow zinc?

[Kevin McSweeney]

Just now, Patcon said:

Did they offer yellow zinc?

Not sure about yellow, but they offered gold zinc - is that the same? I'm certainly no expert but in my experience zinc offers pretty good corrosion resistance. 

[grannyknot]

Yellow/gold zinc, it is the same thing.

[Patcon]

Some things are traditionally clear zinc and some are yellow zinc. I have always liked the look of the correct color parts, but it is not always possible to get them done in the right color.

[Kevin McSweeney]

OK, time to revive this thread. I'm back in California and ready to get back to work on the Z. It's going back to the body shop next week to have some work done, but in the mean time, I want to talk about the engine:

Right now, I have the stock L28 out of the car. It ran well when it was pulled, but I'm going to use the opportunity to do some work on it while it's out. Right now, I don't have the time and/or budget to think about a swap/upgrade to more power. Hopefully a year or two down the road that will be an option. For now, i just want to have the L28 running as well as possible. With that in mind, the work I have planned while the motor and trans are out of the car is:

- Replace clutch

- Replace flywheel with slightly lighter weight version.

- Replace timing chain, tensioner, etc., and probably the water pump.

- A general tune up and clean up.

- Clean up of transmission and installation of short throw shifter.

 

My question is, is there any other maintenance or upgrades I should be considering while I have easy access to all areas of the motor?

I hope everybody's well and thanks in advance.

[siteunseen]

Get your flywheel lightened. New rod and crank bearings. New oil pump, water pump and timing kit. New rings, they're cheap. Valve seals, lap the valves. Cheap overhaul but that's about all these motors need. I'm sure i forgot something...

[7tooZ]

Don’t second guess the water pump do it while the front cover is off. Order a stainless steal front cover bolt set.
Just pulled my front cover and two water pump bolts snapped in side the front cover. I was lucky. With the front cover off I was able to use penetrating oil, heat and a good set of vice grips. Good luck and enjoy the process.


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

[siteunseen]

Zcardepot.com has the SS bolts. I too reccomend as 7tooz those dollars as well spent. Use plenty of Permatex thread anti seize.

Stainless into aluminium you should also use an inches to foot pound torque wrench. Harbor freight has a decent one but you can also get one on the tool loaner program at chain stores. Autozone has the same Pittsburgh one the HF sales.

Edited February 11, 2019 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

Ps

Flat washers against aluminum, split between bolt head and flat.

[grannyknot]

Are you taking the head off?  Always good to replace the valve guide seals,  pull the oil pump off and have a look for wear, scratches.  Maybe a fresh coat of paint on the block and some detailing of other components.

[Kevin McSweeney]

Thanks for the advice. Had not necessarily planned on taking the head off but I may reconsider. I might also swap out the alternator while I'm at it. As it happens I ordered the engine SS bolt kit yesterday just before posting.

[wheee!]

...internally regulated 120 AMP alternator with Heim joint tensioner...

GM 12Si alt. In my thread there is a "how to" on modding the mount.