California 1978 Datsun 280z Restomod

[Kevin McSweeney]

Well I managed to get everything taken apart today and ready to be blasted and powder coated tomorrow.

[Kevin McSweeney]

I also got the welds from yesterday cleaned up and painted. Not sure what the standard is here but I did a couple of coats of SEM self-etching primer followed by several coats of Rustoleum Flat Black Enamel. Should do the job!

[Kevin McSweeney]

Not entirely sure what to do with the ball joints and steering knuckle. They look in ok shape, so considering just giving them a quick clean up before putting everything back together. Any thoughts?  They're not expensive so is it worth replacing since everything's apart anyway?

[Patcon]

If they're tight and look ok with good boots, I might run them for a while.  They will get replaced eventually if you put enough miles on it

[grannyknot]

40 minutes ago, Kevin McSweeney said:

They're not expensive so is it worth replacing since everything's apart anyway?

You are in there now and they don't cost too much.

[Kevin McSweeney]

Cross member, control arms, TC rods, sway bar and some other parts freshly sandblasted and powder coated. Ready for new bushings tomorrow and hopefully get the front end reinstalled over the weekend.

[grannyknot]

7 hours ago, Kevin McSweeney said:

Ready for new bushings tomorrow and hopefully get the front end reinstalled over the weekend.

It looks like the powder coating got on the inside surface where the bushing goes, if you are using a hydraulic press to set the bushing then it probably won't be a problem, if you are doing it manually with a vice then you might want to scrape the coating off. It is a very tight fit.

[Captain Obvious]

Looks great. But whatever process you're using to install new bushings, I think you should get the coating out of the bushing holes first. Even if you're using a hydraulic press.

[Kevin McSweeney]

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

Looks great. But whatever process you're using to install new bushings, I think you should get the coating out of the bushing holes first. Even if you're using a hydraulic press.

I've already taken the coating out of this area. Bushings are being pressed right now.

Also got my new engine mount insulators bolted up, and for some reason I felt compelled to use some more of the foam I used on the fuel tank straps on the jacking point of the cross member. I guess in my head it's going to stay in this condition ?

Edited August 9, 2019 by Kevin McSweeney

[Captain Obvious]

11 hours ago, Kevin McSweeney said:

I felt compelled to use some more of the foam on the jacking point of the cross member.

Haha! I got no problem with that! As good as it looks, try to keep it that way!

Piece of wood between the jack and the foam pad and it'll last for a little while.

Edited August 10, 2019 by Captain Obvious

[Kevin McSweeney]

Took a Sunday drive down PCH to pick up a second L28 - N42/N42 today. Plan is to build this into a 200hp+ NA motor in parallel with the build and in 12-18 months to upgrade to Megasquirt and drop this motor in.

 

Most of the accessories (alternator, AC compressor, clutch fan, valve cover, flywheel, fuel rail, exhaust manifold, etc.) will be coming up for sale so if anybody needs anything let me know.

Edited August 12, 2019 by Kevin McSweeney

[Zed Head]

Is that a Craigslist find?  Looks like it was already out and sitting.  Rusty flywheel.

Looks complete.  Those EGR pipes and parts can be valuable.  They tend to get mangled on removal.