On 2/11/2019 at 10:11 AM, wheee! said:

...internally regulated 120 AMP alternator with Heim joint tensioner...

GM 12Si alt. In my thread there is a "how to" on modding the mount.

Got it, thanks - sounds like a good upgrade.

 

Does anybody know if there is a write-up of how to install the MSA short-throw shifter? Planning to order soon but I've never installed one before, and can't find a 'how-to' on this forum..

Maybe MSA will send you the installation instructions.

It's been a while since I posted - paid work and other things seem to keep getting in the way - but I've been getting things done slowly, a lot of parts have been plated and powder coated, but I'm back into the metal work now for (hopefully) the final stretch.

The only other trouble area that I've found are around the rear arches and bumper area. I've already done some shaving (trim holes, side markers, etc.) and once the replacement sheet metal arrives for the arches, hopefully I can get the remaining metal work done in the next week.

I've also started converting the rear end to 240z taillights with carbon panels and fitted the ducktail wing.

Also a quick picture of the underside showing the replacement floor panels and frame rails all sealed and undercoated.

There's an area of rot around the fuel filler that we're also working on right now, and once it is done and protected, the plan is to start running the fuel and brake lines.

Gents, please see photo below.

The door jamb VIN plate got some overspray on it while applying primer to the body. I had planned on popping the rivets holding this plate anyway - both to protect the metal underneath, and to clean up the plate - my question is is there an easy way to get this primer off without damaging what's underneath, and also, how do I go about reinstalling the plate after the body is painted? I know nothing about riveting.

Thanks again. Car is progressing well. Hoping to up the pace and have it running by July.

You're lucky that the over spray of primmer is pretty light and should clean off easily,  you don't have to remove the the plate but it makes the job cleaner considering you still have to paint that area.  A 1/8" drill will remove the rivets and most hardware stores carry assorted aluminum rivets and rivet guns.  If the primmer is rattle can stuff then squirt some WD40 on a a cotton rag and gently rub the primmer, go slowly with not much pressure, the lettering is paint and pretty tough but still you want to be cautious.

If the primmer is epoxy the wd40 won't be as effective but still works but you might have to use some compound polish or tooth paste on a soft cloth or Q-tip,  they are both abrasives so be very gentle!  After the plate is clean wash it with some hand soap, dry and apply a coat of car wax. 

After having lost a vin plate before now I keep the door, engine and dash tags in an envelope nailed to the shop wall in a prominent spot.  This cleaning method is my own personal experience of trial and error and has worked well on 7-8 tags so far.

I keep them all together with the title work in my files

Thanks, very good advice, appreciate it!

A few more photographs of the engine bay. Starting putting back some parts such as hood hinges, etc., so I don't have so many boxes of parts lying around everywhere! These photographs are a little blurry in spots and the engine bay is covered in dust but still, looking good! 

Finished the metalwork on the rear arches and valance and things are looking pretty good, will get some decent photographs during the week.

Also gave the brake booster a quick paint to clean it up. Forgot to take photos when finished but looks decent. I was planning to go with stainless hard lines but I can't really justify spending the $350, so gave them a clean, primer and some rustoleum flat black to get them looking good again.

Also ordered the stage 4 big brake kit from Silvermine Motors which should be here this week. Planning to start taking apart the front suspension to blast and powder coat the crossmember and sway bar, and do some work to the steering rack. 

Finally got new wheels and tires.

Rota RKR 15x8 0 et in Bronze, and got them mounted with Toyo Proxes R1R's 205/50R15's. I needed to get these so I have wheels to put back on once I do the brake upgrade (wheels on the car now are 14" so too small to fit over the stage 4 kit) but I also need to get the extended wheel studs in order to fit them!

Edited May 13, 20195 yr by Kevin McSweeney

Lots of parts being delivered this week, there will be a lot of progress in the next month.

Today I was power washing my valve cover to get it ready for sandblasting and powder coating, and I noticed what looks like silicone residue on the interior. Is that supposed to be there and, if not, why would it be there? Will sandblasting remove it? I don't really want to bake that into the metal at 400 degrees...