Ressurecting my grandfather’s 280z

[pdw5000]

Hello everyone,

I am new to the forum and seeking your expert advice on my late grandfather’s 280z that I inherited.

My grandfather was the original owner of our 1978 Datsun 280z, 2+2, 5 speed manual, white exterior with brown leather. This car was my grandfather’s “baby.” He was a mechanic by trade and took excellent care of it. He used it as his daily driver for about ten years. Since the late 80s it has been garage kept. About once a year we use to get it out, clean it up, tune it and take it for a short weekend drive. For the past decade or so it has been sitting covered up in my grandmother’s garage. It currently has 84k miles.

My grandmother and I haven’t had the heart to do anything with it since he passed away in 2004. We have been thinking it is time to either fix it up or sell it to someone who will enjoy it. We honestly aren’t sure which direction we want to go just yet.

This past weekend I dug it out of the garage and clean it up. It actually cleaned up really nice. I drained the fuel (definitely old and discolored) and replaced it with fresh stabil gas, flushed the radiator (was actually pretty clean), changed the oil and filter (old oil looked clean with no signs of wear), replaced a single rotted/cracked fuel line about 3” long on the fuel injection rail, new battery and loosened up a stuck drivers side rear drum break. 

Overall the car is 100 percent original with no modifications other than the wheels. We still have the factory wheels in the barn. The interior is in remarkably great condition. The dash was clean with no cracks, carpet was clean, leather finished like new with armorall, etc. All the gauges seemed to work. The only issue with the interior is a small tear at the lower side of the drivers side seat from getting in and out. I really don’t think I would have to spend a dime on the interior unless I wanted to address that small tear in the leather. On the exterior it is original paint and body. The engine bay is very clean with no rust or anything out of the ordinary. There is some rust starting on the rocker panels below the doors, although I don’t think it is rusted through, more like paint bubbling. There is some light surface rust starting when you open the trunk lid, but again doesn’t appear to be rusted through. Underneath it looks very good. The floor pans, frame rails, etc. look nice and clean with no signs of rust. 

I did try to start it but it would just crank with no fire. I used starter fluid and it would fire but would quit as soon as the starter fluid burnt up. I’m assuming the fuel system is gummed up from sitting so long.

Here are my questions:

Is this car worth restoring? I’m not thinking a full show car restoration but more of a drivers restoration that you wouldn’t be embarrassed to show up to a cruise in with.

How desirable of a car is this if we would decide to sell it? How much would it be worth as is?

I was never a big z car fan growing up (actually restored a 68 mustang with my grandfather) but now that I’m getting older and researching this car I have to admit the bug is starting to bite me. I’m leaning towards at least trying to get it running and driving to see if I enjoy it enough to continue restoring it. With that being said, in its current state what steps do you recommend undertaking to get it running?

Sorry for such a long post, just wanted you to have all the information so you could help me. Thank you in advance!

 

[grannyknot]

Welcome to the forum,  YES, the car is worth restoring, sounds like it is in very good shape anyway. The 2+2 models never had as strong a following as the 2 seaters but the owners of 2+2's are fiercely loyal and love their cars and rightly so. Worth? What the market will bear.

Someone here will give you a better idea of the worth but you will have to post some pics, there are a few guys here that will get your car diagnosed in no time. If you do decide to sell at least get her running well and enjoy it for a few long drives, you will realize pretty quickly why your Grandad loved it so.

 

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, pdw5000 said:

2004.

I did try to start it but it would just crank with no fire. I used starter fluid and it would fire but would quit as soon as the starter fluid burnt up. I’m assuming the fuel system is gummed up from sitting so long.

So it's been sitting for 14 years.  It could be that the gas in the rail and injectors dried up and the residue gummed up the injectors.  But it should dissolve  with time and motion.  Or that it didn't dry out but has lost its volatility.  You might disconnect the starter solenoid wire, the little yellow one that will pull off by hand, and turn the key to Start to let the fuel pump flush out the lines and get some fresh fuel sitting on top of the injectors.  Then, if it does start but runs rough take a screwdriver and tap each injector.  A sharp tap can break a stuck injector free.  Then, if the that works take it out and give it a mild thrashing to loosen things up.

The engine in my car sat for ten years and it runs great now.  Good luck.  Welcome.

[w3wilkes]

Welcome, these folks should be able to help you with just about anything you need to know.

My 240 sat for 14 years. Completely cleaned and flushed the whole fuel side of things including ZTherapy rebuilt SU's and it started right up. Now runs better than it used to. I've always thought these cars have a really stout mechanical drive line.

Edited August 14, 2018 by w3wilkes

[Dave WM]

Main thing is to see if the fuel is getting to the injectors at the correct pressure. Pulling the solenoid wire of the starter and turning the key to start should activate the fuel pump. Disconnecting the fuel line from top line off the fuel filter to the fuel rail get something to catch the fuel (under the hood looks like a can mounted to the side of the passenger side fender). Could be gummed up injectors as already noted, could be gummed up fuel pump. If gas sat in the pump for a long time, its likely its gummed up the works (the motor of the pump is cooled by gas flowing thru it).

Problem areas are rust in the fuel tank, rust in the fuel lines, dry rotted fuel injection hoses. Watch out for that last one. I had a pin leak from one of the lines spraying raw gas right behind the fan. Once you get it going you really should replace all the lines with new FI rated hoses. Other areas to watch out for are the rubber bellows in the air intake system. The one that connects the throttle body to the AFM can crack with age, letting unmetered air into the system, messing up the air fuel mix. There are a lot of ground wires associated with the EFI, check them all IF the fuel injectors are not working. That's assuming you are getting gas from the pump to them.

Rust is a common problem, bubbles typically mean more rust under them but no way to know for sure without digging in to it.

Values are dependent on location, seems higher on the east coast, prob due to fewer survivors from rust. 2+2 typically lower in value than the coupes.

The cars are a lot of fun to drive, and very easy to work on. Sounds like you have the right idea get it running and decide if its something you like.

 

[siteunseen]

I would replace the fuel filter up front, behind the radiator on the passenger's side.  There about $10 or so from a chain store.  

[pdw5000]

Thank you everyone for the great advice! I replaced all the fuel lines, fuel filter, spark plugs, and air filter. I also flushed the fuel line before installing the fuel filter. I was able to get it running! It ran great for about 5 mins and then started to idle rough and then gave out. I think the filter clogged. When I was flushing the line I was able to get to fresh gas but kept getting small particles of what I believe to be rust from the fuel tank. I’m guessing that is what is clogging it now. Do you think I should keep flushing it and it should get all the flakes out or will I need to replace the tank? On another topic, the clutch had basically no resistance. The fluid was still topped off so I kept pumping it about hundred or so times. I was able to get it to start feeling normal. However, it wouldn’t engage the clutch. With the clutch pushed in I couldn’t get it in gear. If I shut the engine off and put it in gear with the clutch pushed in and tried to start it, the car would start moving like it was in gear with no clutch pushed in. Seems like the clutch is stuck. Thoughts on how to deal with this?

[grannyknot]

I don't think you need to replace the tank but it wouldn't hurt to drop the tank and clean out the slurry of rust particles on the bottom, if you see a lot of rust on the walls and bottom then it is time to have it cleaned and resealed. The clutch slave cylinder will need replacing no matter what and the good news is they are cheap, while your at it you could pull the clutch master and clean it out and make sure it is not leaking.  Those two things will probably get the clutch working for you.

[Patcon]

I believe Grannyknot is probably correct on all points although I have had clutch disc rust to the flywheel which makes the clutch pedal inoperative. It took a good shock to break the disc loose

[pdw5000]

How do you clean inside the tank?

[Patcon]

There are several tank cleaning threads on the forum. That might be easier than rehashing it

[w3wilkes]

Another thing to check is the rear wheel cylinders. Mine were rusted to the point that they no longer worked. They can be had cheap enough;

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21a09/24-5104

I'm guessing that the 78 2+2 uses the same wheel cylinders as the 2 seater coupe. I would also replace the brake fluid in the clutch and brakes and give them a full bleeding.