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Finally Taking the Plunge - EFI


zKars

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Waiting for someone to comment on the distributor cap....

Had problems in three areas.

1. Ignition noise (COP) killing the USB communication with the car running. Solved with better lower noise COP's (Audi R8 coil packs). 

2. The fancy onesix Industries distributor replacement that gives you a combo crank and cam angle sensor could not provide a stable signal that HAltech could trigger on reliably. At this moment with very little trouble shooting I'm pretty sure it's a combo of noise and improper reluctor gaps. I've gone to a better system of a Hall sensors and missing tooth wheel on the crank and a single hall sensor in the dizzy to give me cam position. I running full secquential.  I didn't like having crank angle on the dizzy shaft anyway. There is play in that there shaft.....

3. My in-ability to tighten fasteners properly. Loose electrical connections especially. SIgh....

Edited by zKars
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12 hours ago, madkaw said:

 Nice work . Too much sloppy from that oil shaft for a good CAS, but at least you made good use of it for the cam sensor. 

Really? Wouldn't that make the 123 Ignition distributor unreliable too? If there is so much slop in the oil / distributor shaft why does the 123 work as well as it does? Exactly how much variation would you actually see in a CAS in the dizzy hole under load? I was impressed with the tuning results from the One Six Industries CAS in testimonials and the video they made. Here's hoping I didn't throw $400 away...

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55 minutes ago, wheee! said:

Really? Wouldn't that make the 123 Ignition distributor unreliable too? If there is so much slop in the oil / distributor shaft why does the 123 work as well as it does? Exactly how much variation would you actually see in a CAS in the dizzy hole under load? I was impressed with the tuning results from the One Six Industries CAS in testimonials and the video they made. Here's hoping I didn't throw $400 away...

Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop,  but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point ,  but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load. 

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4 minutes ago, madkaw said:

Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop,  but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point ,  but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load. 

Point taken. I wouldn't expect it to be as accurate as a flywheel reading. I guess I'll see....

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Yes that's 148 HP at the rear wheels from a NA 2400 CC Nissan hybrid engine. 90 hardbody LZ24 block with an closed chamber ported 70's L20B head fueled with Jenvey Heritage throttle bodies.  

The engine left Rebello years ago with 201 HP at the crank running on weber 45's and a real header. Bet we are close to that again. 

And the best part? The intake sounds are MUCH louder than the exhaust sounds (that I spent so much time taming down...). And for those of you that know that Datsun motor sucking sound, you will pay me to send you video's of this thing...

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And the only thing we broke was the fan belt. It turned itself  inside and kinda on its side, and spewed out cord from it's middle parts.  You cannot bend it back into shape. Didn't actually break, more of cook and curl....

image.jpg

Edited by zKars
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