Glad to help!  Do the other parts in the kit fit too?

1 hour ago, 240260280 said:

Glad to help!  Do the other parts in the kit fit too?

There are a lot of extra parts in the kit. We don't have that many in a Datsun booster. I will tinker some this weekend with the rest of the kit. I may talk to Ed about offering a Datsun specific kit once I have some more facts.

While on the topic of brake boosters, I got mine rebuilt from Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, Ca. ($120), but I wanted to know how peoples brakes behave, it seems that I have to hit the brakes once to "pressurize" the line, then on the second depress I get an actual feeling as if the brakes are operating. Would this be something that is caused by the way the boosters are designed, or is there something else that I should be looking at in the brake system? I've rebuilt all the calipers/drums, but am running some no-name pads.   ?️‍♂️

2 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

While on the topic of brake boosters, I got mine rebuilt from Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, Ca. ($120), but I wanted to know how peoples brakes behave, it seems that I have to hit the brakes once to "pressurize" the line, then on the second depress I get an actual feeling as if the brakes are operating. Would this be something that is caused by the way the boosters are designed, or is there something else that I should be looking at in the brake system? I've rebuilt all the calipers/drums, but am running some no-name pads.   ?️‍♂️

That sounds like air in the lines or possibly the pads or shoes are sitting too far off and the initial tap moves them onto the disc or drum

4 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

While on the topic of brake boosters, I got mine rebuilt from Power Brake Exchange in San Jose, Ca. ($120), but I wanted to know how peoples brakes behave, it seems that I have to hit the brakes once to "pressurize" the line, then on the second depress I get an actual feeling as if the brakes are operating. Would this be something that is caused by the way the boosters are designed, or is there something else that I should be looking at in the brake system? I've rebuilt all the calipers/drums, but am running some no-name pads.   ?️‍♂️

 How far down does the pedal go down on the first push? How far down on the second push?

Cool! I did a bunch of digging around on the website for the guy you got that kit from, and I noticed that he was using the same pictures for several of the kits. "Stock photo" and not necessarily accurately representative of what they parts really looked like. I was worried that what you saw might not be what you got.

Can you take a pic of the other parts besides the diaphragm? I'd be interested in taking the poppet valve seal off your hands and seeing if I can get that onto my old booster plunger.

Also, are there any numbers cast into the new diaphragm? When I had my rebuilt booster apart, there were numbers on the diaphragm inside that I wrote down somewhere. I'm wondering if they got their diaphragm from the same source. I wonder how many people in the world are casting that part.... In other words,  I'm wondering do all the rebuilder companies get their stuff from the same source, or do they all make their own?

So here is the mustang kit all laid out. I believe, the white part and one of the grommets is the vacuum port for the Mustang. I am not sure what the part that is at 7:00 to the vacuum port is. I believe all the other parts are the same or very similar to the ones used in the Datsun booster

The only number on the disc

So I started on a new booster tool. I will use the press to help squeeze it a little

Bottom section is drilled into a 2x12 to receive the booster

Making a template for the lever, it will be steel

Looks like fun.  I like the big chunks of wood.  Looks redneck.

Any way to get the forces acting on the outer edges, where the contact points are?  Those studs are not meant for that type of twisting force, I think.  You could torque/bend those surfaces, or the studs.  The clamping points are way out at the perimeter at those dimples.  

 

19 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Looks redneck.

Of course it does!

I don't know of anyway to turn it from the perimeter. On the first one I opened up I tried to drive it open like a fuel sender ring and started to cut the tab off the case. Then I built a couple of wooden templates with long 2x4's and that worked. It is easier if you apply clamping force to the case. So I will make the new setup work in the hydraulic press

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

So here is the mustang kit all laid out. I believe, the white part and one of the grommets is the vacuum port for the Mustang. I am not sure what the part that is at 7:00 to the vacuum port is. I believe all the other parts are the same or very similar to the ones used in the Datsun booster

The part at 7:00 to the port is the poppet valve seal. That's the part I want.

In fact, in preparation for you to send it to me, my spare poppet valve fell apart earlier today:

Oh, and your clamshell tool looks just like mine! I screwed some two inch long 2x4 cutoff stubs to the edge so I can use my big bench vice to turn the planks. I thought I had taken some pics of that procedure, but I can't find them. Probably misfiled...  

15 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, and your clamshell tool looks just like mine! I screwed some two inch long 2x4 cutoff stubs to the edge so I can use my big bench vice to turn the planks. I thought I had taken some pics of that procedure, but I can't find them. Probably misfiled...  

The 2x material has the advantage of protecting the whole length of the studs and vacuum port

Do you have any better pictures of the booster plunger and how it's held in? I know there is a U shaped clip on the bottom, but in the current booster I am working on, that clip is rusted in. Do I have to take the pressure off or something?