front suspension and tire clearance problem

[newbzee]

I'm going to pull it apart once once spring compressor set arrives.  I'm tired of messing with it on the car and can get some better measurements that way.  I'm assuming I'm going to need to source a replacement but I'm still hold out hope.  Meanwhile, I got the rear hatch glass with trim installed today so a nice victory while waiting.

[newbzee]

Can anyone tell me if all the 240's used the same strut housing? 260's?280"s?  I need to know my options.

[Zed Head]

As your problem has stewed in my brain I've remembered past conversations abut side loads and stuff, and how the front suspension works.  The basics of it are the the wheel is controlled by the transverse link, the TC rod and the strut.  The side loads on the strut, which you're working with, are basically from the wheel trying to tilt in or out as you corner, due to side forces on the tire tread, from the road.  But the steering linkage also ties the two wheel together, so if one wheel tilts in the other should tilt out.  So my first thought that the strut and spindle alone should be a rigid assembly is probably off.  There might be some flex.

One way to get the strut tube to flex inward, as suggested by others, is if the top of the shaft is loose, the isolator, as cgsheen said.  But another way might be if the shock shaft is bent.  One more area to check.

I think that all of the various connections have to be tight otherwise the looseness translates to other parts of the system.  You'd be surprised at how far the wheel will move when a TC rod breaks.  I have rub marks on my inner fender well.

cgsheen builds suspension parts.  He would know best.  I'm just on the "something's not right, it should be found and fixed" boat.

[newbzee]

Is there any reason to think the tension rod could be the issue?  I thought it basically only affected the tires center in the fender but am I wrong?

[Patcon]

I don't suspect the tension rod.

I know the 280z strut tubes are different

After looking at carpartsmanual.com it appears there were six variations of struts for the front. 3 for the 2 seaters 240z/260z and 280z and 3 for the 2+2 cars. I know the 280z struts are larger diameter so the strut tubes are correspondingly larger. I don't know what the change was from 240z strut to the 260z strut

[cgsheen1]

Yup, carpartsmanual.com shows the same strut assembly part number through 07/73.  The front strut assembly part number changes 08/73 - 08/74 - that's the early 260Z time frame.  IDK when the cutoff was for the 1973's.  The early 260Z has struts similar to the 240Z - or same length and tube diameter. 

The 260Z was heavier so the springs are different (a little longer, and thicker wire).  The spring perch may be slightly different as the installed length of the early 260Z spring is 3/4" longer than the 240Z spring.  I don't think the 260Z stance is 3/4 higher in front than the 240Z, so they may have lowered the perch slightly to use a little longer spring.  I might measure that at some point...

[newbzee]

Much appreciated everyone.  Now to find one.

[newbzee]

I should probably try and find a part number and make sure the PO didn't frankenstein the wrong strut onto the car.

[newbzee]

Also, just because it would be the responsible thing to do, I should ask:  are we sure the 2 sides aren't different from the factory?  I know someone if MF'ing me for asking but it's visually confirmed they are the same?

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, newbzee said:

Also, just because it would be the responsible thing to do, I should ask:  are we sure the 2 sides aren't different from the factory?  I know someone if MF'ing me for asking but it's visually confirmed they are the same?

They are mirror images of each other but other wise they are the same

[gundee]

Just wondering before buying a strut, have you checked the nut that holds the hub on the spindle is not loose?

Unless you have already removed the hub to check bearings.

[HS30-H]

4 hours ago, newbzee said:

Much appreciated everyone.  Now to find one.

I think you should try to properly diagnose the problem, and fully understand what exactly is wrong, before writing off the strut and searching for a replacement.

Take it off, take it apart, use Mk.I eyeball and whatever measuring equipment you have to hand. Get to the bottom of the issue. I'd treat them as a matched pair and do them both, in fact. 

Devil's Advocate: