front suspension and tire clearance problem

[Patcon]

2 hours ago, Lumens said:

Just wondering before buying a strut, have you checked the nut that holds the hub on the spindle is not loose?

Unless you have already removed the hub to check bearings.

I agree with Lumens. I seriously doubt the issue is in the strut. I am sure they can be bent but I suspect it is more likely a bearing or hub issue. Don't just throw parts at it. Find the problem before you pay $100+ for a strut

[cbuczesk]

We've wrecked and punished our race cars and yet they're rarely much out of alignment. I'd check the strut just to be sure that it's straight but I agree that the problem is most likely bearing or hub related.

Chuck

 

[newbzee]

I'm on the same page.  I'll probably start tearing into it in the morning.  I'm not looking forward to that seized caliper bolt though.

[LeonV]

20 hours ago, cgsheen1 said:

Yup, carpartsmanual.com shows the same strut assembly part number through 07/73.  The front strut assembly part number changes 08/73 - 08/74 - that's the early 260Z time frame.  IDK when the cutoff was for the 1973's.  The early 260Z has struts similar to the 240Z - or same length and tube diameter. 

The 260Z was heavier so the springs are different (a little longer, and thicker wire).  The spring perch may be slightly different as the installed length of the early 260Z spring is 3/4" longer than the 240Z spring.  I don't think the 260Z stance is 3/4 higher in front than the 240Z, so they may have lowered the perch slightly to use a little longer spring.  I might measure that at some point...

Your assumptions are correct: 

 

[newbzee]

Attached are a couple pictures of my initial findings.  Neither of these scenarios look good to me.

[cgsheen1]

That's too bad...

[newbzee]

Additional pictures of the wheels bearings and the strut tube weld.  Ant thoughts?  The spring perches seem fine, the strut bearing is intact and functional with no noticeable play and the isolator doesn't doesn't have any strange wear.  So the the things that stand out to me are; ball joints are junk, the connecting rod has a slight twist which I don't know if that's normal, the ball joint doesn't seem to mount in the center of the connecting rod which I don't know if that's normal but doesn't seem so based on FSM pictures, and the wheel bearing seem to be seated deep but I'm not taking it apart until I get feedback, and lastly the strut tube doesn't stay on the same plane as the spindle housing.

[Zed Head]

The outside of the casting is rough and might not be parallel with the bored hole.  Were it mine I'd put the wheel back on, then stand on the wheel, flat on the gorund, and work the end of the strut around by hand.  See if it's loose like you thought and see if you can see where it's moving.

[Zed Head]

2 minutes ago, newbzee said:

 lastly the strut tube doesn't stay on the same plane as the spindle housing.

Doesn't stay or isn't?  Doesn't stay implies that it's loose.

[newbzee]

Sorry...Isn't in the same plane.  No noticeable movement and the welds seem fine minus one area in the picture where there looks to be a small gap and I wonder if its from trying to straighten things at one time.

[newbzee]

I really want to understand the problem and get the right answer, not throwing parts at this, but the difference in angle shown on the strut tube housing look like it would make things the same as the other side if straightened.  Is there any way to straighten it and possibly weld in a gusset for added strength?

[cgsheen1]

Here's a test:  Set the strut assembly on a flat surface - or a surface that you can verify it's "tilt" with a level.  I'm talking about the surface showing in your last picture - The surface that bolts to the steering arm (and thus the ball joint).  The bottom of the hub.

We've found that the strut tube is at a 90 degree angle to this surface.  Put a level on the top of the strut tube and see if it's actually in the same plane as the bottom surface.  If the base is level (on a level surface) the top of the tube will be also - and all sides of the tube will be at a 90 degree angle to that surface.  (That's how we determine position (lean) of a weld-on adapter tube when installing fully adjustable coilovers)

If the strut tube is bent - and I believe it is, I would never try to repair that or suggest that to another.  Personally, I stand by my initial suggestion that you  replace the strut assembly.

Edited August 23, 2018 by cgsheen1