Shop says they can't perform an alignment

[882993md]

1 hour ago, 7tooZ said:

Kudos to the shop for calling out a problem and not charging. Howard you should share the shops name and location.


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

The shop is Automasters at 7925 Queenair Dr, Gaithersburg, MD. Tommy is the person who helped me. 

Howard

[Captain Obvious]

A build date of 8/74 seems pretty late to me.  I don't know when they started with the 75 280's, but I wouldn't be surprised if yours was near the end of the run. So based on that, I would guess your 260 is a late version... Big bumpers like the 75-76 280's? Turn signals up in the grill instead of below the bumpers?

And to the topic at hand... Wide groove on the steering rack requiring the wide version of the rack bushings.

 

Edited August 23, 2018 by Captain Obvious

[Mike W]

I would have to check my CD microfiche to see exactly when they changed the design of the rack, but I do believe that the Captain is correct that it was around the time of the 260 transition.

As far as 260 manufacture dates, I'm pretty sure that the "small bumper" 260 ended production in 8/74 and the "large bumper" 260 went from 9/74 to 11/74.  My car is a large bumper 260Z and has an 11/74 manufacture date.  I believe that it was one of the last 260's to be built (for the US market).

I agree with the other comments about the rack bushings.  Those definitely need to be changed.  If that does not completely cure the problem, you may consider changing out the inner / outer tie rod ends or perhaps source one of the new racks that have become available recently.

Mike.

[LeonV]

All 260Zs got the updated steering rack and need the 280Z bushes, I had to do so on my old 9/73 260Z. Late 260Zs were manufactured from 9/74-12/74, the switchover to the 280Z occurred sometime in 12/74.

[Chickenman]

Bottom line. If your mechanic isn't bitching and swearing about how difficult the the frackin'  rack bushings are too install... you've got the wrong bushings. 

[882993md]

Thank you everyone. 

 I finally got the bushes after a two day delay delivery by UPS.?

 There’s nothing in the instructions about using any type of lube. Do these bushings install dry? Thank you.

Howard

 

Edited August 26, 2018 by 882993md

[Chickenman]

I would use some silicone lube on the outer shoulders just to get the clamps on. Makes life easier. They should be a tight fit. Liquid dish soap would work as well. Rest of bushing goes on dry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[882993md]

Hi everyone,

 I put the bushings in a bowl of boiling water for a few minutes. Then I applied silicone lube and even then they just barely squeezed in-but they are in. 

 I had to disconnect the steering lower joint and I stupidly forgot to mark it  with some white out.  Is there a trick to centering the steering rack  before reconnecting the lower joint, or do I just eyeball it?

Howard

Edited August 26, 2018 by 882993md

[Zed Head]

There are punch marks.  It's described in the Steering chapter.

[Captain Obvious]

As mentioned already, if you have the correct bushings, they are supposed to be tight. I found that the brand I had didn't even fit right when new.

No guarantee that all brands are the same, but here's my experiences with the poly rack bushings. Long thread, but my pics have been reloaded on page four:
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?do=findComment&comment=531913