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I would source another if I could. As I recall they are almost like spring steel and I am afraid even if you could weld it, that it would fatigue and break beside the new weld. Also you might melt the wheel unless it was removed first. You could always give it a shot if you have a welder just for giggles

Thanks Charles.  I don't have a welder, so I'll look for a replacement.  Unless something like JB Weld would hold up.  Does that idea have much of working out?

Light spring steel sounds right.  I replaced my broken pieces with a used one.  But I think I've seen NOS parts out on the interweb.  Maybe some place like ZCarDepot even.

usually available @ https://zcardepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=window+roller&cat=

however showing out of stock currently - I purchased a couple about a month ago when I was rebuilding my doors / adding sound proofing.

 

Thanks guys.  I also saw that Z Car Depot didn’t have them in stock, but I’ll give them a call on Monday to see if they expect to get more of them.  Otherwise, I’ll look for a used one.

12 hours ago, SoCalJim said:

I have a broken window roller on the driver's side door.

Your photo is a great illustration of how (and why) these parts failed in regular, daily-driver service...  5 years of driving x 1 drive/day x 1 up-down cycle/drive = 7000+ flexes through those two narrow webs of spring steel. Add additional cycles for further use by new owners over some/all of the next 35 years. 'S-N-A-P'!  A junkyard piece may have already exhausted a good part of its useful life, so if you're planning on keeping your car and using it a lot, it might be a good idea to grab a spare for the driver's side door. 

if all else fails, the part can probably be cobbled from sheet metal (24 gauge sounds about right).  Trace a pattern, drill the holes for the roller, bend to shape, trial fit.  Make some dimples in the fold-over to help provide some bite on the door flange (the OE part has pressed-out teeth, IIRC).  Precision to +/- 0.001" is not required.  Nor is concours appearance.  When you're happy with the fit, temper the metal to give it some springiness.  Remove the roller, heat to red-hot with a torch, and then quench in water or (preferably) oil.  Prime and paint, or zinc-dip, or zinc plate before re-installing.

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