1970 HLS30-06521 Re-Restoration

[grannyknot]

Unfortunately, I don't own that car anymore, I just went through the resto photos and can't find anything definitive but just from memory I'm very sure there was just 3 lines, main, return and brake line.

[CanTechZ]

15 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Thanks @CanTechZ, okay, so then I don't know if it was a UN car or not, all the pollution controls had been removed by the time I got it.

When pollution controls are removed most people don't go to the effort of sourcing and replacing the two groove pulley and E46 balance tube that has extra ports and brackets for the emissions controls. Here is a picture of my "UN" set up with the single groove pulley and E41 balance tube, sometimes called "euro style". These items may be easier to spot in your resto pictures.

[Namerow]

My 70 Z is a US car originally from Colorado (VIN in the 003500's) and it has the plastic 'clamshell' wiper motor cover.  It came to Canada late in its life, so unlikely that the motor and cover were replaced with a 'Canadian-market' item.

I think that this design was replaced by the bag for a few reasons:

• easier installation into the cowl cavity during vehicle assembly
• better protection of the motor from rain/snow
• less expensive to produce 

[CanTechZ]

1 hour ago, Namerow said:

My 70 Z is a US car originally from Colorado (VIN in the 003500's) and it has the plastic 'clamshell' wiper motor cover.  It came to Canada late in its life, so unlikely that the motor and cover were replaced with a 'Canadian-market' item.

I think that this design was replaced by the bag for a few reasons:

• easier installation into the cowl cavity during vehicle assembly
• better protection of the motor from rain/snow
• less expensive to produce 

Thanks for the input, your reasons do sound plausible. I still find it strange that the cover shows as optional in the parts book.

[240dkw]

I found the post , I was wrong, it was a car that @zKars scrapped. 

[CanTechZ]

Here's an update with this week's progress. Removed the seats and prepared them for storage. The left seat was recovered in about 1980 with the closest matching vinyl that my upholstery guy could find. Unfortunately he was not able to re-use or source the four metal vents. Redoing the seat foam and supports is on my to do list.

 

I removed the seat back so that they will be easier to store. All of the clear plastic protector shims were in good shape and have not yellowed all that much.

 

I also removed the visors and rear mirror. Luckily the visors are in great shape, unfortunately the mirror is not, it will need to be re-silvered. Another item on my to do list.

 

Also I continued with stripping the doors,

I removed the door front, rear and lower seals. I managed to only break two of the plastic seal retaining pins. After some cleaning I think the seals will be reusable except the small rear seal on the left door was missing.

 

Next I removed the windows and regulators. Following the instructions in my FSM, I first removed the front sash with window rolled up fully (not as shown in picture). Secondly I removed the window, starting with the glass in the halfway up position. I lifted it out of the regulator and tilted the rear end up to lift it out of the window frame. Lastly I removed the regulator thru the rear upper opening in the door and then removed the lower glass guide channel.

 

I found a few screws washers and bits in the bottom of the doors...

The screws with plastic washers are to hold the plated steel lower channel to the window glass. A total of three had come loose and dropped off, is this a common problem?

[CanTechZ]

Wrapped up the week by doing some organizing. I sorted and binned most of the parts that I have removed recently. The bins also contain contents list that I have made copies of. Hopefully this along with lots of zip lock bags and pictures will make re-assembly a little easier, without relying only on memory.

Edited April 26, 2020 by CanTechZ

[CanTechZ]

Another update on the ongoing disassembly, removed the heater and related parts, radio, center console, choke assembly, dash defrost cover and vents and glove box. It was much tougher to contort myself under the dash today than it was in my younger days but I got if done, LOL. I'm glad that 20 year old me didn't toss the original radio when I went thru an evolution of stereo systems. 

  

[CanTechZ]

Over the last few weeks I've made a little more progress. Removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir and drained all fluids, brake/clutch fluid and engine, transmission, differential oils. Removed most brake, clutch and fuel line tubes and hoses as well as the brake master cylinder, master vac and clutch master and slave cylinders. Removed the fuel system heat shield and fuel rail. Removed intake and carbs and the exhaust header and pipes forward of the resonator. Removed all remaining coolant hose and tubes from the engine. Getting closer to be able to remove the engine and transmission. I'm trying to decide if I should remove them as a unit or drop out the transmission first.

 

[CanTechZ]

My next task is to remove the instrument panel/dash. I have a dash from a 12/70 parts car (pictured here) that I used to build a rack to safely store the uncracked dash from my car.  I will be storing it on a newly installed shelf in my office, out of harms way.

 

[Captain Obvious]

Love the pics with everything laid out in proper geographic location. Excellent!!

[CanTechZ]

Over the weekend I successfully removed the instrument panel. To make it easier I first removed the steering wheel and column, gear shifter and e-brake. The dash is now safely mounted on the storage rack I previously built.

 

Even with the great resources from this site, my FSM and Wick Humble's book, I still managed to miss disconnecting the flasher unit and a warning buzzer, both mounted at the top of the pedal box. Luckily my son has helping me to do the removal and stabilized the dash while I made those final disconnections, and a potential disaster was averted.