Namerow Posted June 29, 2020 Share #49 Posted June 29, 2020 On 4/26/2020 at 3:22 PM, CanTechZ said: The screws with plastic washers are to hold the plated steel lower channel to the window glass. A total of three had come loose and dropped off, is this a common problem? I have two pairs of L/R windows. All of those screws were firmly in place and showed no signs of being ready to back out. I can't imagine why yours ended up at the bottom of the door. I wonder, perhaps, if that window was the victim of a break-and-enter at some time earlier in the car's life, with the new glass not properly secured to the frame by the installer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share #50 Posted June 29, 2020 13 minutes ago, Namerow said: I have two pairs of L/R windows. All of those screws were firmly in place and showed no signs of being ready to back out. I can't imagine why yours ended up at the bottom of the door. I wonder, perhaps, if that window was the victim of a break-and-enter at some time earlier in the car's life, with the new glass not properly secured to the frame by the installer? I'm still at a loss as to why those screws would fall out on there own. While plausible l don't think it was a replacement issue, definitely not in the 42 years that I have owned the car. In the case of the right door, it still had the original vapor barrier in place and there was remnants of the factory plastic wrap over the door panel at the fastening points of the arm rest and opener. Still a mystery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post CanTechZ Posted June 30, 2020 Author Popular Post Share #51 Posted June 30, 2020 After recently removing my exhaust header I was able read the casting number on my E31 block, The casting number is located low on the left side, just back from center and in raised characters reads "0630I". Using the decoding method suggested by @katsthat would make it 50 years old today. Here is the old topic from back in 2004, where this was discussed: 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted July 1, 2020 Share #52 Posted July 1, 2020 On 6/30/2020 at 7:03 AM, CanTechZ said: After recently removing my exhaust header I was able read the casting number on my E31 block, The casting number is located low on the left side, just back from center and in raised characters reads "0630I". Using the decoding method suggested by @katsthat would make it 50 years old today. Here is the old topic from back in 2004, where this was discussed: Mine has 2208J. So that matches the build date of 02/72. '72 February 8th but what does the "J" stand for? Is it just a batch symbol possibly? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted July 2, 2020 Share #53 Posted July 2, 2020 I missed the birthday for mine it was on the 25th. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post CanTechZ Posted July 2, 2020 Author Popular Post Share #54 Posted July 2, 2020 Spent some time yesterday cleaning the dash and some of the ventilation system parts to ready for storage. I am storing select parts on shelves in my office the rest will in my crawl space and organized on shelves and bins in my garage. I under estimated the space required but I'm doing my best to be organized so that I won't have to rely to much on my memory when I eventually get on to re-assembly. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Patcon Posted July 2, 2020 Popular Post Share #55 Posted July 2, 2020 Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share #56 Posted July 5, 2020 Yesterday I removed the black vinyl from my transmission tunnel and the bulkhead behind the seats. I also removed the insulating material from the firewall and the jute insulation from the transmission tunnel, with careful use of a scraper while gently lifting all the jute came off cleanly with out much damage. I'm very happy that all of the insulating materials and vinyl can be reused. Next I will be removing the tar mats from the floors to inspect for rust. Before removal I am following the lead of @inline6and creating templates of the tar mats so that I can make replacements to use at re-assembly. Here is a pic of the first one, If time permits I will be creating cad profiles of the tar mats that would be suitable to make printable templates. If I get to this I will upload them to cad file section in our downloads area. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share #57 Posted October 4, 2020 On 7/5/2020 at 9:16 AM, CanTechZ said: Next I will be removing the tar mats from the floors to inspect for rust. Before removal I am following the lead of @inline6and creating templates of the tar mats so that I can make replacements to use at re-assembly. Here is a pic of the first one, If time permits I will be creating cad profiles of the tar mats that would be suitable to make printable templates. If I get to this I will upload them to cad file section in our downloads area. Yesterday I finished the front floor template cad files and uploaded them to the cad files section, I'm hoping that others, besides me, can make use of them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share #58 Posted October 4, 2020 (edited) It's been a while since I've made a progress report so I thought today is a good day to do that. Firstly I had a good meeting recently with my body man Jody. I will be sending the bare shell to his shop in mid November. We looked the car over to see what repair parts I should order, and decided on the following: 1. Zedd Findings - LH and RH front frame rails 2. Auto Panel Solutions (UK) - LH and RH outer repair panels above T/C box 3. KF Vintage JDM - LH floor panel and full frame rail, toe board, rear floor repair section - RH full frame rail, toe board If other parts are required we will address as we go. Since last report I have removed the starter and transmission and finished stripping the doors of window frames and latch/lock hardware. Removed the quarter windows, windshield, hatch glass and all seals. I also stripped all ventilation system parts from the hatch. I will be pulling the engine soon. Edited October 6, 2020 by CanTechZ Corrected Auto Panel Solutions name 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted October 9, 2020 Author Share #59 Posted October 9, 2020 The repair parts I ordered last week all arrived this week. All look great and top marks to all three suppliers for delivering faster than promised. From Zedd Findings - LH and RH front frame rails, From Auto Panel Solutions (UK) - LH and RH outer repair panels above T/C box, From KF Vintage JDM - LH floor panel and full rear frame rail, toe board, rear floor repair section and RH full rear frame rail an RH toe board Here is a mock up of the LH parts, 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namerow Posted October 10, 2020 Share #60 Posted October 10, 2020 Zedd Findings has always been a quality source of repro parts. Now we have KF Vintage JDM (and I can personally vouch for both their product and their customer service). The (important) surprise is Auto Panel Solutions from Britain. These are previously unobtanium panels that are being delivered a hi-fi by a previously-unknown supplier. RIP, Tabco. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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