CanTechZ Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share #73 Posted October 22, 2020 7 hours ago, 240dkw said: Mike, When you get close to needing a fuel pump, let me know. I have a rebuilt one with all new internals. I have one more rebuild kit so I would like to have your old one, or I can just sell you the kit. Dan Thanks Dan, I don't think my pump is rebuildable. Mine pumps fuel fine, but has a slow oil leak at the pin for the rocker. Is your complete rebuilt put a Nikki? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiyabrad Posted October 22, 2020 Share #74 Posted October 22, 2020 2 hours ago, CanTechZ said: Thanks Dan, I don't think my pump is rebuildable. Mine pumps fuel fine, but has a slow oil leak at the pin for the rocker. Is your complete rebuilt put a Nikki? Mike Dan. If Mike is not a buyer for the rebuild kit I’d like to buy it if it’s for a Nikki. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240dkw Posted October 22, 2020 Share #75 Posted October 22, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, CanTechZ said: Thanks Dan, I don't think my pump is rebuildable. Mine pumps fuel fine, but has a slow oil leak at the pin for the rocker. Is your complete rebuilt put a Nikki? Mike Mike, here are a couple of photos, as there is no pressure as long as your PCV is working I would think that a few drops of Loctite would stop any leaking around there. Are you sure its not coming from the weep hole just above my thumb in the first photo. If the internal seal fails it will leak from there. All of the ones I have rebuilt had a failed seal. Edited October 22, 2020 by 240dkw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share #76 Posted October 22, 2020 8 hours ago, 240dkw said: Mike, here are a couple of photos, as there is no pressure as long as your PCV is working I would think that a few drops of Loctite would stop any leaking around there. Are you sure its not coming from the weep hole just above my thumb in the first photo. If the internal seal fails it will leak from there. All of the ones I have rebuilt had a failed seal. Thanks Dan, the weep hole on my Nikki pump is in a different location and doesn't seem to be leaking at that point. My weep hole is on the opposite side just above the pump fastening nut. It does seem to be leaking at the pin, here is are a couple of pictures. I am interested in your kit, as my parts car engine also has a Nikki pump that hopefully I can rebuild. If your kit will work with a Nikki please PM me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share #77 Posted December 13, 2020 Been a while since my last update. Not much to report but yesterday I removed the main body electrical harness, interior light and rear defrost harnesses and the body antenna cable. When removing these I attached wire to the ends before I pulled them out so that it will be easier to fish them back in when it's time to re-assemble. I also used cling wrap and tape to cover and hold the connectors and branch wires against the main harness bundle, to prevent the harness assembly from getting snagged as I pulled it through the body. Seemed to work well. All of the electrical has now been removed. I will have a bit of work to cleanup this harness but I didn't do any damage, even the grommets are salvageable. The harness all have the original date coded tags intact. Here are pictures of the main body harness, followed by the interior light harness. I was wondering what the number 2 in the triangle after the part number indicates. I thinking that is a revision to the assembly that is still backwards compatible and not requiring a change to the part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share #78 Posted December 13, 2020 I also want to thank Dan, @240dkw for selling me the rebuild kit for my Nikki fuel pump. It was very generous of him to include a set of the plastic retainers for my spark plug leads. I was missing one and most of the others were cracked. Here is how they look on my 1970 dated coded Yazaki leads, The yellow date code and Yazaki writing is quite faded but is still legible. In 2005 I put on new spark plug leads as I couldn't remember when I last changed them. I almost tossed these out before I realized that they were original. The distributor cap is not original, but it is a Hitachi, and has the logo. I purchased it in the early eighties from the parts counter at my local Datsun dealer. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted December 13, 2020 Share #79 Posted December 13, 2020 WOW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share #80 Posted May 8, 2021 (edited) A member requested a few more pictures and dimensions of the original Yakazi spark plug and coil leads I have for my car, so I thought I would share here as well. Coil Lead: Spark Plug Leads: Dimensions (revised May 18/21): Edited May 19, 2021 by CanTechZ Replaced sketched with revision A, corrected lengths. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedRoo Posted May 9, 2021 Share #81 Posted May 9, 2021 Great stuff Mike, some wires have a long /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ and some have a short /\/\/\, is that the same on each wire. Also I see 3 YAZAKI 1970 16 3 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 3 on the middle lead. Does this repeat along the wire from end to end? Roo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share #82 Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, SpeedRoo said: Great stuff Mike, some wires have a long /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ and some have a short /\/\/\, is that the same on each wire. Also I see 3 YAZAKI 1970 16 3 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 3 on the middle lead. Does this repeat along the wire from end to end? Roo Yes, that pattern does repeat for the full length. The 3 YAZAKI 1970 only appears a couple of times (possibly 3 times on some wires). And the point in the pattern where it starts on each wire varies, as if it is cut from a spool for each number series. The longer \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ markings seem to correct the pattern for the intermittent name and date code markings. Here's a picture from the 1971 (HLS30-04684) with 21,000 mikes that sold for 310K last year on BAT, the markings are a lot brighter yellow than mine, Just noticed that it is missing one of the wires holders for the 1,2,3 leads. I wonder how much money was left on the table with this item missing. . Thanks again Dan, @240dkwfor the ones you sent me to complete my set. Edited May 9, 2021 by CanTechZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted May 9, 2021 Share #83 Posted May 9, 2021 I don't know if it's been mentioned, but those /\/\/\/\/\/\ markings probably signify "resistor". 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanTechZ Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share #84 Posted May 9, 2021 6 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said: I don't know if it's been mentioned, but those /\/\/\/\/\/\ markings probably signify "resistor". That makes sense, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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