I am tearing down my 70 to 240z and before I put it together I want to get some parts plated just wanted to know if anyone happens to have a list of every part that I can get plated on my car before I put it all together?

11 minutes ago, Dude said:

 I am tearing down my 70 to 240z and before I put it together I want to get some parts plated just wanted to know if anyone happens to have a list of every part that I can get plated on my car before I put it all together?

Basically every metal part on the car that was not painted body color, black or blue was finished some how, excluding aluminum pieces. Most were plated yellow and "yellow zinc" is used for that. I believe a couple of parts were plated black and some parts were plated shiny silver or "clear zinc"

Even the parts inside the brake booster, the heater hardware, window regulators and latches were all plated yellow zinc. Most don't go to those extremes but I know a few that have...

35 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Basically every metal part on the car that was not painted body color, black or blue was finished some how, excluding aluminum pieces. Most were plated yellow and "yellow zinc" is used for that. I believe a couple of parts were plated black and some parts were plated shiny silver or "clear zinc"

Even the parts inside the brake booster, the heater hardware, window regulators and latches were all plated yellow zinc. Most don't go to those extremes but I know a few that have...

WOW can’t say I want to go as far as the eternals but I would like to some main pieces done. Is there a basic list of the parts I could get platted?

8 hours ago, Dude said:

WOW can’t say I want to go as far as the eternals but I would like to some main pieces done. Is there a basic list of the parts I could get platted?

No not really. Most people will plate all the fasteners, carb parts, fuel rail and the under hood pieces. Make lots of notes on where the fasteners come from so they can end up back where they came from.

As @Patcon says, there is no such list.  A very general "rule of thumb" is that unpainted parts from the firewall forward are plated yellow zinc and parts aft of the firewall are clear (white) zinc.  One noted exception to the clear zinc rule is the fuel filler cap and neck - those are yellow zinc.  Your best bet is to surf for pics of engine bays and other areas that have been restored to locate parts to be plated.

Original hose clamps for your 1970 build are clear zinc.  The door strikers are clear zinc.

50 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

As @Patcon says, there is no such list.  A very general "rule of thumb" is that unpainted parts from the firewall forward are plated yellow zinc and parts aft of the firewall are clear (white) zinc.  One noted exception to the clear zinc rule is the fuel filler cap and neck - those are yellow zinc.  Your best bet is to surf for pics of engine bays and other areas that have been restored to locate parts to be plated.

Well I have my work cut out for me thanks ??

12 minutes ago, 26th-Z said:

Original hose clamps for your 1970 build are clear zinc.  The door strikers are clear zinc.

This is going to be tricky to figure out what to platt and not?

3 hours ago, Patcon said:

No not really. Most people will plate all the fasteners, carb parts, fuel rail and the under hood pieces. Make lots of notes on where the fasteners come from so they can end up back where they came from.

This is going to be more of a hassle trying to figure out what is the most important parts to platte first 

Anything that you do not plate will stick out like a sore thumb.  Also, plating shops usually plate in batches with a minimum lot charge.  Best thing to do is plate as much as you can in one shot.  It ends up being much cheaper than sending multiple small batches.   I separate my parts into yellow zinc and clear/silver zinc, putting them into large zip lock freezer bags.  I put a sticky inside the bag indicating color, yellow zinc or clear/silver.

I understand your concern over remembering where everything goes after plating - we all go thru that.  Here's a suggested approach:

- During disassembly, carefully bag and tag everything immediately as it comes off the car.  DO NOT consolidate stuff, make it specific.  Use a paper tag inside the zip bag with the parts to identify what it is / where it came from - a felt tip marker on the bag can easily rub off.

- Thoroughly clean everything in a bag, remove all rust, dirt, paint, ...etc.  The better you clean things, the better your plating results (remember the old axiom: garbage in. garbage out).  A wire brush wheel on a bench grinder is great!  Take stuff apart wherever possible: bolts, nuts, washers, springs, ...etc.  If the factory plated things before assembly, so should you.

- When a bag of parts is clean, photo the parts with the paper tag visible.  Put it all back in the bag until all is done.

- Small parts like washers, nuts, tiny springs can and will get lost in plating if left loose.   Use some thin, soft wire to make closed loops for like things: nuts, washers, springs.  For tiny screws, tightly wrap thin wire a couple of times around the threads then give it a twist to lock it in place (see pics).

- When everything is cleaned, the moment of truth arrives: time to dump everything into a big zip bag to take to plating.  Save your small bags and tags for use later when it all comes back.  If you've properly documented everything, you should be able to return all parts to their original bag with tag.

Good luck.

 

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Great explanation, Jim.  I bagged and wired in groups, like 'the rear suspension' or 'front fender bolts' so that groups / assemblies came back all together.  The wire wheel routine will take your fingertips off.  And zing precious bolts as far out as the front lawn.  I used a rock tumbler from Harbor Freight and media for rust cutting to clean all my hardware.  The bigger things had to be media blasted which I farmed out.

https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html

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