I have searched and read but trying to figure out the easiest way to get the read drums off my car. Where exactly is the adjuster located? Can i stick my adjuster tool in there to loosen the shoes before attempting to pull the drums off? I need to replace the wheel cylinders in the rear. I appreciate any advice. Also need to replace one lug stud. I believe they are the originals. Is M12x1.4MM sound right? Where can i buy one and possibly a lug nut for them? Thank You in advance. 

There's not an easy way if they're stuck. ?

Make sure the E-brake is off and tap around the fins with a rubber hammer, or a sledge if it's bad.

The adjuster can be accessed through the drum with a skinny screwdriver after removing that rubber plug if you have the OE drums.  Some aftermarket don't have that.  I think you turn it down to loosen?  The thing with the teeth.

That hole in the bottom of this picture, rotate the drum until you see the teeth.  Good luck.  Big hammer is the easiest way.

 

  On 9/6/2018 at 4:56 AM, moparmusclecars said:

Also need to replace one lug stud. I believe they are the originals. Is M12x1.4MM sound right? Where can i buy one and possibly a lug nut for them? Thank You in advance. 

It's a good idea to replace all the studs if you can, they take a lot of abuse over the decades with air guns, brake jobs and tire replacements.  They are inexpensive and available at any auto parts store, same with the nuts.

Once the new studs and nuts are installed and torqued to specs take the car out for a 1-2 mile drive and then re tighten.

If you're going to replace the shoes you might as well spray some WD-40 or squirt some oil inside and spin the wheel to get things lubed up.  Even after you get them started they'll be hard to keep coming.

I really appreciate the responses. I do have the plug in that small hole, so i will pull it and reach in there with a small screw driver, and back off the adjuster. My main reason for getting in there is the rear brake cylinder is leaking, so i was just going to change both sides while I am at it. Any tricks to help me make this an easier job when replacing them? I've done them on many cars, but never on a Datsun Z car. I am sure once I've done it, it won't be that bad. Thanks again, Everyone.  

Are the studs suppose to be M12X1.25? I am assuming mine are the originals still. Car has 68K miles on it.  What should the studs be torqued to???? My car has the slotted wheels I have seen on so many of these cars, back in the day. 

 

Edited September 7, 20186 yr by moparmusclecars
Needed to add more.

That length sounds about right but you may have to go a little longer depending on what is available,  60 ftlbs is what I use but really I haven't looked it up in years, check for yourself here, 

 

  On 9/7/2018 at 4:01 AM, moparmusclecars said:

I really appreciate the responses. I do have the plug in that small hole, so i will pull it and reach in there with a small screw driver, and back off the adjuster. My main reason for getting in there is the rear brake cylinder is leaking, so i was just going to change both sides while I am at it. Any tricks to help me make this an easier job when replacing them? I've done them on many cars, but never on a Datsun Z car. I am sure once I've done it, it won't be that bad. Thanks again, Everyone.  

I changed mine a couple of months ago and loosened the two bolts before the hardline, mistake.  Loosen the brake line first.  It's easy, 15 minutes per side??

Good luck.

I always take the two bolts out holding the wheel cylinder in place last, always.   lol

The Nissan studs are still available.  You can even get them from Amazon.

#18

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Axle/Front-Axle