New Member - 77 280Z 3-Speed Automatic

[MH77280Z]

Yes I plan to buy the new switch.

Datsun_280Z_Service_Manual.pdf

[MH77280Z]

Guys what is the engine oil grade recommendation? based on this manual seems like10W-30 or 20W-30 would be right? I am in Nor CA avg. temp being 70-80Fthroughout the year?

[Av8ferg]

People have a lot of options on this topic.  From my research 10W-30 was the recommended oil with some caveats. 

https://zcarguide.com/datsun-280z-oil-change-guide/

Lots of discussions about Zinc Additives and many recommend Valvoline with ZDDP.  

Here is another link. 

https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5765-l-series-preferred-oil-brand-and-grade/

[MH77280Z]

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

People have a lot of options on this topic.  From my research 10W-30 was the recommended oil with some caveats. 

https://zcarguide.com/datsun-280z-oil-change-guide/

Lots of discussions about Zinc Additives and many recommend Valvoline with ZDDP.  

Here is another link. 

https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5765-l-series-preferred-oil-brand-and-grade/

Very good posts - thanks for sharing. I did not realize the L28 is flat tappet - it does ask for decent amount of ZDDP.

[Zed Head]

On 9/6/2018 at 12:12 PM, MH77280Z said:

Hi Guys,
I just joined the forum. I bought a 77 280Z 3-speed auto.The car has been sitting for about 4-5 years. We had to load it on the trailer. It is clean inside and no serious rust issues.
I checked the transmission oil and it seems to be in a decent color. Engine oil was dark.
I am planning to take the engine and trans pans off and clean them as much as possible before putting the new oil and try to start it up. Brake system also needs clean/flush.
 

There's not much reason to take the pans off and clean them.  Extra time and effort and could lead to unexpected problems and leakage.

Do you know why it has been sitting?  They all "ran when parked" but there must be a reason.

Some simple things that you can do are to open the fuel line between the fuel filter and the rail and see if there's liquid fuel in it.  See if it smells like gasoline or sweet kerosene.  Or Pine Sol.  If it's dry or the fuel is orange-red and smells funny the injectors could be gummed up.  If it smells like gasoline they'll probably be okay.  After you check the fuel tank for rust and old fuel, refill it with fresh gasoline then run the fuel pump to push the old fuel out of the rail and injectors and get it diluted with good new fuel.  Or break the return line back by the tank and push the old fuel out.

Check that the breaker plate in the distributor isn't rusted.  If it is the bearing cage will probably break when vacuum is applied on the first engine start.  Lube it up before starting.

Pop the valve cover and see how much rust is under there.  Condensation can produce a lot of moisture over time.  If there's rust then one of the oils with zinc additive might be a good idea.  Many people don't use it after break-in but better to be safe.  Valvoline VR-1 is popular.  I think that NAPA carries it.

Check the air filter housing and intake tubing for mice nests.  It's one of their favorite spots, besides the air vents in the cabin.

Squirt some oil in the cylinders through the plug holes and let it coat the rings before spinning the engine.  Some of the valves are always open when the engine is stopped so there will be at least two cylinders with some surface rust on the bores.

[rcb280z]

11 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

I agree on "fix it". If your location of 95050 is Santa Clara, CA I believe your car's year still needs to pass emissions.

Yep. ^^^^

Don't get rid of anything emissions related. And if it's broke you'll need to fix it before attempting a smog check.  

Lots a great advise above. Follow it. Also make sure your battery is either fully charged or a new one.

And a can of starting fluid if she doesn't want to start after completing the above steps.

Edited September 8, 2018 by rcb280z

[Zed Head]

Does it have a catalytic converter?  They got rid of ZDDP to save the catalytic converters, along with lead in the gas.  Might rethink the zinc in the oil.

https://www.catalyticconverters.com/damage/

[MH77280Z]

Installed new tires today. Paint is not very good due to prolonged outdoor exposure. Inside is I think considering its age is still very good.

Next step is now probably to clean the fuel, trans, break and coolant lines first like everyone is suggesting.

[madkaw]

With regard to dropping oil pan . I would take off valve cover and see how bad it looks under there. It’s pretty easy to determine whether there was neglect as far as oil changes . If the the oil is caked or baked everywhere or there is sludge build up , then maybe dropping oil pan is worth it. 

Heres a pic of a 73 oil pan I did. The valve area looked sludgy and suspected the worst . 

[MH77280Z]

Guys, have been inspecting the engine. Can someone tell me what these two circled white caps are? just caps or relays?

My car does not have these caps, instead under each there are 4 terminals. Mine are jumped together.

What are they?

[grannyknot]

Those are your fusible links, they take a little longer to blow than a standard fuse.

[Patcon]

18 minutes ago, MH77280Z said:

Guys, have been inspecting the engine. Can someone tell me what these two circled white caps are? just caps or relays?

My car does not have these caps, instead under each there are 4 terminals. Mine are jumped together.

What are they?

They should never be replaced with standard wire jumpers! They should also be replaced with the proper amperage link if they do need replacing.