1 hour ago, zKars said:

Interesting car. I love the ingenuity of the previous owner.

I'm SO going out and making an intake just like that one! I bet there is a cone air filter out front of the rad but yes, show us more pictures! I will not use exhaust tubing or crush bends however.. Wait, I don't have a Z at the moment.... oh well.

It's missing the heat shield which is why the carb return springs don't have a place to connect at the bottom, so what was done is what you see to make them a place to mount.

The PCV valve should be connected to the open block vent. The valve cover connects to the missing air cleaner housing as mentioned. 

Take heart. If it runs and stops you've got something to work with.

I suppose I can offer an air cleaner housing and heat shield so you can get that thing looking and working a bit more 'right" under that hood. 

hahah it does run and stop. seems to be running lean. and I'm not sure if I'll be able to sync the carbs properly with that tie connecting them. ill look into getting pcv valve. do you think the valve cover vent going in the carb will make for a lean condition? I should probably do something about that. I know it's got ugly square lights ...

Edited September 15, 20186 yr by mattjcr240

2 hours ago, psdenno said:

How is the battery secured in the battery tray?  Looks a little loose.

Also, what's the little tube, or rod, protruding from the cap top of oil level dipstick in the front carb?

Dennis

I have no idea I was wondering the same thing 

With a second look it seems the "intake" is a re-purposed 2 into 1 exhaust collector.... there may be a backwards turbo out of the shot.

 

Is this thing some sort of balance tube?  

Show us where the air comes in.

It almost looks like they were trying to go turbo. Float bowls linked, intakes linked, sealed intake runners...

Probably a leaf blower at the ends of the intake tubes...

thanks for all the input guys! can anyone tell me how the original su carbs linkage is beacuse mine is tie wire. and the valve cover vent going in unmetered after the carb cant be good? 

@mattjcr240That strange looking top on the front carb looks like the screw cap turned upside down with the "jiggly bits" and stem removed. Matt, unscrew the black knob on top of the rear carb, pull it out of the carb and compare it to what? is installed in the front carb. Front and rear should look the same. Pics please.

I believe the wire tied linkage is for a dashpot.  It was wired up to prevent flopping and rattling. Probably not an issue for right now. I think the valve cover vent is tied back to the pcv valve, so shouldn't be unmetered...

I have some input. First, a little more detail about the PCV tube... One of the PCV valve's jobs is to meter the amount of air being pulled out of the crankcase, so it's not unmetered. It's reversed direction from the way it came from the factory, but only time will tell if that's acceptable or not.

The wire tie on the throttle linkage is necessary because a PO has removed the "throttle opener" device. It's an emissions thing that reduces emissions during deceleration by holding the throttle open a tiny amount. With that device removed, the linkage connection point for it is loose and flopping around on the linkage. That wire just keeps it from flopping loose. It's ugly, but doesn't really cause a problem. The "right" way to fix it would be to reinstall a throttle opener system.

As for the rod sticking out of the damper knob on the front carb? My guess is that's the end of the rod that is supposed to be pressed into the plastic on the underside of the cap. I suspect it has punctured all the way through and is now sticking out the top of the plastic cap.

"How does such a thing happen?" You might ask... It can happen with a front fire rapidly causing a high pressure inside the intake manifold (probably caused by a lean running condition). That high pressure burst tries to rapidly push the suction piston up, but (just like they're supposed to do) the jiggly bits on the damper stalk try to slow the piston's upward rise. However, in this case, the explosion wins, the damper can't get out of the way fast enough, and the stalk blows out the top of the plastic cap.

Edited September 16, 20186 yr by Captain Obvious
I can't spel

so I removed the two caps ser rhe picture. they were dry. from what in reading shouldn't there be oil on there? also in regards to the vent on the valve cover would it be better to plug the port on the intake manifold and just put a filter on the valve cover?  

the picture makes them look like different lengths but they're that same