Removing Clock Arms

[zclocks]

I don't think the needle gauge from Amazon will work due to it's size. It might work, but needs to be modified. 

You can make a similar tool from a cheap pair of needle nose pliers. I did this yeas ago and it works very well. If you damage the hands I do have many in stock.

 As far as removing the screws on the back of the clock housing it takes the right size phillips and a lot of pressure to remove. If that doesn't work spray rust remover on the screws and let it set for a day or so before trying to remove

ZC

[zclocks]

This is a hand tool  I made years ago.....

Edited October 6, 2018 by zclocks

[TomoHawk]

On 10/4/2018 at 1:21 PM, cgsheen1 said:

I've painted all my gauge cases white inside and it's amazing what it does for gauge illumination!  I've never needed higher wattage bulbs in my 260Z...

You should consider changing the rheostat to the electronic dimmer.   You'll get better control and brighter lighting as a benefit.

I've painted my gauges as well (very carefully, with a small, flat brush and gloss-white paint) but IMO, putting in LED bubs had a greater increase in lighting the face.  Don't forget to paint the back of the outer casing of the plastic front cover.

Anyway, to get the arms off, I twisted them slightly to free them, and they pulled off like those of a cheap quartz movement wall-clock.  Then I pressed them back on  as well.  I considered painting the arms with a Day-Glo paint so they shine brighter, but I decided the illumination was enough, and I don't look at the clock at night anyway (while driving.)

[cgsheen1]

I installed LED gauge bulbs in a customer car years ago and absolutely hate the harshness of that light.  But, I'm an old dude and grew up with soft green gauge lighting.  My rheostat windings are clean and it works like a champ - so does my gauge lighting...

[TomoHawk]

You can colour the LED with a green marker, if you like the green colour.

Edited October 14, 2018 by TomoHawk