'78 Black Pearl Restoration

[Captain Obvious]

I'm not sure that production is really a good idea... I worry that would just encourage people to mess with their AFM's when they probably shouldn't. My AFM came to me already messed with, and the glue blobs completely removed from the inside. Even with bright light, magnification and careful study, I could never determine where my AFM started. My PO removed all traces of the original calibration marks. All I knew was that my car ran very rich, has aftermarket injectors, and my PO messed with everything including the AFM. I had exhausted all other avenues and came to the back-hand conclusion that my PO messed up my AFM. It would certainly have fit his MO. He was after "more power", and I think someone told him that "more fuel makes more power" so he tweaked the AFM. I have since re-tweaked my AFM and it runs waaaaaay better now.

So about the tool... I do have a milling machine, but I didn't use it for the gear teeth. I did the teeth on a "shaper". I'm sure you know what that is, but for those who never heard of one, the shaper is the predecessor to the milling machine. Old school. The saying is "You can make anything you want on a shaper. Except money."

One tooth at a time and then rotate the workpiece to the next position using an indexing head:

Here's a shot of my ancient indexing head. From the late 1800's or very early 1900's:

Sorry for the thread-jack!

[Pace]

That's quite the interesting tool, Captain.

I'm hoping we don't need to mess with the AFM. But I wouldn't be surprised if it was already "adjusted" by a previous owner. That would be the only reason for me to calibrate per factory specs.

The long-term goal is to ditch the stock EFI in favor of Megasquirt (or Micro if it can handle our needs) and ITBs. Nothing is set in stone obviously. I have a couple options saved, but currently have my eye on a set of OER 45s to go with a mild L28 build. But that's going to be down the road. So I might change my mind in the meantime.

I broke a pin while cleaning one of the connectors under the dash that the hazard switch is tied into. In lieu of replacing and repinning the entire connector, I found a set of "Ford style" replacement pins at the local parts store that looks identical. Let's see if I can avoid making things worse. 

Edited October 15, 2018 by Pace

[dmorales-bello]

Very ingenious AFM adjustment tool Capn' ! You're a constant source of amazement.

[Pace]

Small update. Work has been keeping us busy and we had to set aside some time and funds for our Jeep - we had a little too much fun offroading. 

But we finished a few small things here and there while the weather was nice. Replaced the broken pin in the connector and swapped in electronic flasher relays, so it now has properly working turn signals - no more super fast flashing. Hazards aren't working, so my guess is the switch needs some cleaning or replacement. The driver's side headlight also (finally) died while testing various lighting functions. I noticed the wiring to it was pretty bad and it's not a surprise since someone swapped in H4 housings at some point. So that will also need attention later.

New vs Old: You could really tell the difference between the hefty electronic relay and the feather-light thermal relay.

The next step was to get the brakes working properly again by replacing the worn out brake booster. I noticed inventory for the 8.5" version has been dwindling online and in parts stores, so I took a leap and ordered a replacement from Autozone. After getting the original booster off, it was evident that was the source of poor brake pedal feel & performance: tipping it to one side allows old nasty brake fluid to pour out the vacuum port. Someone replaced a leaky master cylinder a while back and neglected to replace the faulty brake booster apparently. This could also be the vacuum leak affecting the ideal - although probably not the only one. 

And of course the A1 replacement booster that came in doesn't fit. I initially noticed that the vacuum port is on the opposite side, which seems to be the norm for aftermarket replacements. However, this one has a 90* bend instead of the straight design. Additionally, the studs appear to line up with the firewall but will only go through halfway before stopping. I measured and found that the cylinder in the middle is just barely offset (also slightly bigger) and doesn't allow for the booster to mount up as it should. So I checked inventory with another store and they have one exactly like it - no thanks. A quick online search found a couple posts at the end of this thread about someone else having the same issue: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/377474-brake-booster-won-t-fit-3.html

So I'll be returning this booster and ordering a replacement from Z Car Depot after the holidays.

And onto the big news: we were not planning on getting different wheels yet. I honestly wanted to get the Z back on the road first and work out a few issues, possibly even start on some body work, but this was too good of a deal to let go. Someone posted a set of SSR Longchamp XR4 wheels in 15x7 with a 0 offset for a good price semi-locally. After confirming some details with the seller, we drove to Junction City, KS to pick up the wheels. Also had a chance to stop for dinner at Q39 in Kansas City on the way back - they have awesome BBQ if you haven't had it. 

Back home and after quick wipe-down: they could do with a bit of a refinish. We'll probably clean up the hardware, repolish the lips, and touch up the black paint.

As we suspected, our measurements show them to actually be 15x7 +10 (for the stepped lip pair) and 15x7.5 -5 (for the slant lip pair). The 175/60/15 tires on them are trash (both in fitment and condition) and will be swapped out for properly-sized tires. So pay no attention to those.

Since the weather was nice yesterday, we decided to roll the car out of the garage for a quick test fit. I was thrilled to find that the wheel sizes/offsets were closer to what we thought. 

For the laughs: it's currently sitting at monster-truck height (after removing the bumpers) and the tiny tires only exaggerate that effect.

Front fitment: I'm thinking a pair of 10-15mm slip-on spacers with longer wheel studs should allow for the wheels to sit flush with the fender. I should've measured the distance from wheel to fender but forgot. We had a good laugh as a riced out NA Z32 decided to buzz us from the roadside as he went past.

Rear fitment: Pretty much spot on, so I'm leaving it alone.

Tire sizing is proving to be a bit difficult. I didn't realize the options for 15" tires had dwindled so much recently. So now we have to decide if we want to try to fit a decent 205/55/15 summer tire or go full stupid with a 225/50/15 streetable race tire. I'm also open to suggestions if anyone knows of better options. 

Ideally, we would send the wheels off to be upsized to 16x8 with matching slant lips (and probably flipped hardware). Then I could probably get away with a 225/50/16 and have several more options. But that will have to wait.

Edited December 17, 2018 by Pace

[rcb280z]

4 hours ago, Pace said:

So I'll be returning this booster and ordering a replacement from Z Car Depot after the holidays.

 Just in-case zcardepot doesn't have it in stock, Motorsport Auto carries them. Almost $100 cheaper too.

Not trying to take sales away from anyone, just an observation. 

[Pace]

Just now, rcb280z said:

 Just in-case zcardepot doesn't have it in stock, Motorsport Auto carries them. Almost $100 cheaper too.

Not trying to take sales away from anyone, just an observation. 

Good idea.  I had forgotten about them.

Hopefully MSA has some of the older style if they stock A1 Cardone. I spoke to someone at Z Car Depot and they were able to confirm they have the older style (correct fit) from their supplier. 

[rcb280z]

They actually want your core. Its an exchange bases. Your core or $300.

So I'm assuming they rebuild the original unit, maybe?

[Pace]

I hope everyone had a good Christmas & new year. Here's a small but encouraging update.

I ended up buying a Centric 8" (by the company's words - it was still the proper 8.5" size) brake booster advertised for '75-78 2-seaters. Rock Auto had a couple left, so I jumped on it. While not as nice looking as the A1 unit, it actually fits. The vacuum port is straight, as it should be, although I was a bit annoyed that it's a plastic piece instead of metal. Either way, the booster is in and works. Brakes feel a lot better for their age & condition. Suspension is laughably soft and boat-like. It also feels like the flywheel still has a bit of rust on it, but is getting better the more it drives. 

There are still a few things I would like to have done before we take it to get a much-needed alignment and actually drive it outside of the neighborhood.

Exhaust: I believe I have a deal lined up on a 6-1 header (in exchange for my spare Z31T axles). Also will probably pick up the "premium exhaust" from MSA to go with it. I noticed a couple puffs of exhaust leaking out from in front of the rear wheel well while it was idling in the driveway.

Suspension: I currently have a set of Tokico HP struts and matching ST springs along with various poly bushings to be installed. We also somehow ended up with a set of Tokico springs. I need to order strut mounts for the front and rear - so I think the "street camber" kit from MSA should do the trick until we move on to something better. Also looking at picking up the boxed diff mount from Technoversions.

Engine: I have a new water temp sensor for the ECU to install. Side note: is it not commonly referred to as a CHTS like later models? I think this will help with our odd idle: since replacing the brake booster, it now idles about 900rpm during warm up, then drops to 750rpm where it starts to miss and sound a bit choppy. Obviously there are plenty of possible culprits, so I'll also go through and re-check timing, vacuum lines for leaks, etc.

Wiring: Some of the EFI connectors are broken or have torn boots. Probably contributing to the idle issue I mentioned. I've got my eye on a kit to replace those and upgrade to modern "quick disconnect" connectors. I'm sure we'll find more things in the process that need attention. I also want to address the issue with the crispy and failed headlight wiring. It already has H4 headlight housings, so I'm thinking about swapping in a set of LED headlight bulbs to lower the power draw once we've repaired/replaced that section of wiring. Eventually I'll swap over the Maxima alternator from the Z31 to this, but it otherwise seems to be doing fine with the stock alternator.

Edited January 14, 2019 by Pace

[siteunseen]

You have a well thought out plan!  Enjoy reading your post.

I've always read CTS, coolant temp sensor, FWIW.

[rcb280z]

Looks to stop very well.

Clean and or replace electrical connectors under the hood. Injector connectors, etc. I replaced all my pig tails with new ones.

Check all vacuum lines, including PVC, AAR, etc.

Also the AFM to the throttle body boot.

[Pace]

No progress on the S30. But we finally got a warmer, dry, and sunny(!) weekend to get some work done on one of the daily cars. So the Z cars got a bit of sun.

I'm sure you can tell which one didn't want to start. Lol. I guess it has been a few months since it was last started. I also have a hunch that someone left the hood popped after showing off the engine bay a few weeks ago. 

Edited January 28, 2019 by Pace

[Pace]

No mechanical updates. Life and work have been busy with other projects unfortunately. We're currently replacing the top boards on our deck: exciting...

I recently got involved in the growing local z car club so we hosted the year's first "tech day" at our place. Got to see a few other S30s up close and get some ideas for our own. 

Edited April 3, 2019 by Pace