Series 1 interior restoration

[Sunline]

I have a couple of questions regarding some options that can be done when restoring the price nterior of my series 1. 

I am having the seats reupholstered with leather, but not sure whether to use vinyl or leather on the tranny tunnel and the rear wheel wells and shock towers. The original vinyl is in perfect condition, but I sort of want to go with the leather since they use the same diamond pattern as the vinyl. Will this hurt or help re-sale if I ever decide to sell it? 

I have the dash out and am replacing the heater core and actuator. The dash is original and uncracked but I know that it is 45 years old and not sure how long it will stay that way. Do you think it would be a good idea to install a Vintage Dash replacement or just keep the original and hope it holds up?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

BTW I will attemp to restore the gaskets in the heater box which have disintegrated.......

 

 

[Patcon]

I would use the original dash. Be very careful when you remove it or it won't be crack free anymore. I don't know on the vinyl. If I had to guess I would say it won't help resale. I don't worry to much about that as I don't plan on selling. If it leaves my garage that more than likely means one of my kids got it.

[Sunline]

Guess you missed it. The dash has been removed. No cracks. Just not sure if it will last. 

Anybody on this site install the Vintage Dash?

[w3wilkes]

@motorman7 Has got some info in his thread starting here;

 

[dmorales-bello]

It all depends on the final quality of the Vintage Dash reproductions but 40+ year old plastic will undoubtedly crack sooner than later, it's just a matter of time. Considering how labor intensive it is to replace a dash, and that you've already taken out your original dash, if the Vintage Dash units live up to expectations you will save yourself a lot of time and trouble replacing your old dash with a new repro now. My original dash was perfect at the time I restored my "78 280Z and has developed two hairline cracks that will surely grow (even though kept in a climate controlled garage). I'm on the waiting list for a Vintage Dash unit now but I'm not looking forward to the work involved.

[7tooZ]

I have a couple of questions regarding some options that can be done when restoring the price nterior of my series 1. 
I am having the seats reupholstered with leather, but not sure whether to use vinyl or leather on the tranny tunnel and the rear wheel wells and shock towers. The original vinyl is in perfect condition, but I sort of want to go with the leather since they use the same diamond pattern as the vinyl. Will this hurt or help re-sale if I ever decide to sell it? 
I have the dash out and am replacing the heater core and actuator. The dash is original and uncracked but I know that it is 45 years old and not sure how long it will stay that way. Do you think it would be a good idea to install a Vintage Dash replacement or just keep the original and hope it holds up?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
BTW I will attemp to restore the gaskets in the heater box which have disintegrated.......
 
 

I sort of disagree with others. I think that the original dash does have an affect on the potential sales price it is sort of like numbers matching engines. People with money paying high prices like the idea of saying “original”. Also I don’t feel like removing a dash is is the hard part of covering a dash. Removing all of the internals and replacing them is the time consuming part. I have done this to five early cars. We sent cracked dashes out to have the new covers done. $2000 and They came back looking new. If you are thinking about doing that why not cover it with the same leather you are having on the seats? Or purchase cracked dash and save your as is?

Years could go by before your cracks. I personally have a 71 original dash in my car that cautiously care for. if it cracks later I will then do something with it.
If you decide to go with the leather diamond patterns then save the vinyl pieces for the future.

Just my two cents for thought.

PS PM. Me photos of that radio


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

[Dave WM]

9 hours ago, dmorales-bello said:

It all depends on the final quality of the Vintage Dash reproductions but 40+ year old plastic will undoubtedly crack sooner than later, it's just a matter of time. Considering how labor intensive it is to replace a dash, and that you've already taken out your original dash, if the Vintage Dash units live up to expectations you will save yourself a lot of time and trouble replacing your old dash with a new repro now. My original dash was perfect at the time I restored my "78 280Z and has developed two hairline cracks that will surely grow (even though kept in a climate controlled garage). I'm on the waiting list for a Vintage Dash unit now but I'm not looking forward to the work involved.

have you considered routing a radius at the end of the cracks? just a tiny one but enough to relive the stress concentration? I had a single crack that I terminated with a tiny ball bit on a dermal, has not grown. I suspect it would have stopped it from growing as much as it did if it had been done when the crack 1st started.

[dmorales-bello]

19 hours ago, Dave WM said:

have you considered routing a radius at the end of the cracks? just a tiny one but enough to relive the stress concentration? I had a single crack that I terminated with a tiny ball bit on a dermal, has not grown. I suspect it would have stopped it from growing as much as it did if it had been done when the crack 1st started.

I'm sorry Dave but exactly what does "routing a radius at the end of the cracks" means? Pardon the ignorance on my part....

[Sunline]

I have decided to stick with the original vinyl since it in perfect original condition and just re-install the original dash. I will cross my fingers that it continues on in its current uncracked condition. I think I will convert the instrument lighting to LED because it is pretty dim.

[DannDZ]

21 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

I sort of disagree with others. I think that the original dash does have an affect on the potential sales price it is sort of like numbers matching engines. People with money paying high prices like the idea of saying “original”. Also I don’t feel like removing a dash is is the hard part of covering a dash. Removing all of the internals and replacing them is the time consuming part. I have done this to five early cars. We sent cracked dashes out to have the new covers done. $2000 and They came back looking new. If you are thinking about doing that why not cover it with the same leather you are having on the seats? Or purchase cracked dash and save your as is?

Years could go by before your cracks. I personally have a 71 original dash in my car that cautiously care for. if it cracks later I will then do something with it.
If you decide to go with the leather diamond patterns then save the vinyl pieces for the future.

Just my two cents for thought.

PS PM. Me photos of that radio


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

I too have a '71 with an original dash without cracks and I agree that keeping the original is the best approach. That said, I'm wondering what you have done to maintain your dash. My car has had very limited exposure to sunlight. I've used your standard products but have also slathered it with clear petroleum jelly (Vasoline) at one time. I think this year I may use 303 or stick with Vaseline!

What have you done?

[DannDZ]

53 minutes ago, Sunline said:

I have decided to stick with the original vinyl since it in perfect original condition and just re-install the original dash. I will cross my fingers that it continues on in its current uncracked condition. I think I will convert the instrument lighting to LED because it is pretty dim.

What is your design goal? To maintain originality or to modernize your 48-year-old car? Personally, faced this question in 2000, I went original as possible. Your goal may be different. Are you installing electronic ignition? Larger wheels and tires? Changing up the suspension or adding Bluetooth? If you are doing these things, your decision is made, go with the LEDs. Otherwise, confirm that you are getting the best light possible from the original system and leave the LEDs to other uses.

[Dave WM]

1 hour ago, dmorales-bello said:

I'm sorry Dave but exactly what does "routing a radius at the end of the cracks" means? Pardon the ignorance on my part....

I think I have a video, but if you have a crack there will be a sharp point at the end of it, this is a stress riser or a concentration of stress, and will tend to continue to follow that point lengthening the crack. using a small moto tool, you can fit them with a bit that has a very small ball. at the very end of the crack if you simply use the ball to cut a round end to the crack, the stress will be less focused and should help to stop the crack from continuing. It does not have to be a large radius just enough to make in no longer a sharp point.