heyitsrama Posted October 25, 2018 Share #1 Posted October 25, 2018 Howdy Y'all, Been waiting on this job to get back to me, so I've been attacking the seat support / floor pan on my 260z. I got the seat supports repaired from the damaged sections, but want to approach the floor pan in the easiest manor. Here are some pictures. So on the floor pan itself there is a section thats near the rocker that has a radius curve upward, then a flat section (seen by the space between my index finger and thumb) Im thinking that this is going to be difficult to replicate on a flat piece of sheet metal. I plan to save that Charlie's Pan for my other Z, this car just needs the rear section of the pan. Now I understand that in order to weld this space you need to ensure that the metal is healthy and not rusted, I believe that under that surface rust I should be able to just weld a flat pan all the way to the curved portion of the trans-tunnel, unless someone knows of a better way I can create this curved bend. Speaking of making curves, what about that middle bead thats in the pan (last image) I was considering taking a empty blue propane can, and beating it into the flat sheet to match the bend, might work unless someone has a better way. opinions? advise? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted October 25, 2018 Share #2 Posted October 25, 2018 The depressions in Charlie's pans are made on some kind of bead roller. You can see the center point in the middle of the end half circles. I think they will be hard to fabricate with out it. Making a pattern and trying to beat an impression in is only going to stretch the metal and make it oil can. I think you could fabricate the piece of metal under the seat by shaping the curve over a bar or the empty torch bottle after you make the 90 degree bend it. the seat bracket looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share #3 Posted October 25, 2018 As far as getting the section attached to the old floorpan, it appears that in http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards2.htm the rear spot welds are removed, and the new panel is spot welded into place instead of attempting to match the plane of the surrounding area to the floor pan. Maybe this is a better approach for the rear section. Would the approach be better (secure, cleaner) for attaching the new section with a 90* bend upward like Charlie’s (and zhome) or could it also work by cutting from where my index finger is in the image, to the back section? So many little things to consider quite fun still :) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted October 25, 2018 Share #4 Posted October 25, 2018 As Patcon says recreating that shallow hump that runs along the rail is a tough job, you can cheat by cutting a strip of 16ga sheet the same width of the hump and welding that in where the hump would be, it's not the same but will give you the added stiffness that is needed above the rail. Also, making that entire rear seat floor pan patch out of 16ga will add strength. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share #5 Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) @Patcon @grannyknot So I formed the a pan with two 1/2" beads in the middle with a 1.5" strip between them. Im running into some different ways to get the pan welded, and with that formed to the contour of the bottom of the car. The first way is to do 3-butt welds (front, trans side, rear) and plug up some of the holes I made, and have the rocker panel spot welded + glued. The second way is 2-butts (front , trans) and have the rear section overlap like OEM, rocker is spot welded + glued. I'll need to massage the pan again to get it to fit properly on the rocker side, but probably take me 20 min. EDIT* I also would need to drop down the section thats on the frame rail that connected to the round portion of the old pan, I think cutting a slit and hammering it flat to be welded to the new floor pan should work.... Ultimately I understand that its not going to look perfect, but im okay with the compromise. Better than the old section that feels like a taco shell thats been sitting outside for days. Edited October 31, 2018 by heyitsrama 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted October 31, 2018 Share #6 Posted October 31, 2018 If you do the lap seams at the back of the pan and the original pan is on the bottom, you will need to be sure and seam seal it really well or that joint will pick up water. I like to butt weld the tunnel side and I would probably butt weld the front too. I believe there was originally a lap weld some where near the rear of the pan but I am not positive on that. I like to make my repairs as invisible as possible. I believe the less the car looks like a patch work quilt the better value it will have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share #7 Posted October 31, 2018 @Patcon, there is a lap weld on the rear section like the second set of photos. I’ll reshape the pan tomorrow to try to get it snug like a bug in a rug. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted October 31, 2018 Share #8 Posted October 31, 2018 Nice, that's going to work just fine. A bead roller is a great tool have eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heyitsrama Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share #9 Posted October 31, 2018 13 hours ago, grannyknot said: Nice, that's going to work just fine. A bead roller is a great tool have eh? There was no way I was going to be able to get the shape that I wanted out of the metal by beating on it. I was just lucky that I called up my buddy who had one. The only issue is that the beads are the wrong size, but im not sure if anyone makes a die in that size 2.5", I was thinking of drawing one out and having my grandpa make one while he's over seas. I want to learn how to use the tool more effectively, maybe make the rear deck-lid replacements. I lucked out on the metal brake, my grandpa built this one that does the job, but the max length is 18" the floor pan is 17" I was reading over on hybridZ that people swear by using argon blend gas with their mig welders for sheet metal at 18ga. I had good luck with a flux-core wire when I was repairing the hood, I think this welder I have has a gas option, would it be worth while to switch over? Cleaner = Stronger = Smoother = More better? ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted November 1, 2018 Share #10 Posted November 1, 2018 55 minutes ago, heyitsrama said: would it be worth while to switch over? Cleaner = Stronger = Smoother = More better? ha Oh yeah, if you set up gas for your mig you will never go back, I guarantee it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted November 1, 2018 Share #11 Posted November 1, 2018 Get yourself some Cleco’s , it will help you very much in this endevour . I posted a thread many moons ago about installing the pans - it might help 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 1, 2018 Share #12 Posted November 1, 2018 Yes, get the shield gas if you can. Should be an Argon / CO2 blend I believe. Much cleaner welds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Berk
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