You can expect to spend around $5 / sq. ft. for a nice epoxy floor.  I really like mine.  It can scratch and gouge if you scrape something over it.  Mine is a light tan color and shows dirt real easily but I can clean it up with a Swiffer and it looks great.

A friend gave me 10 gallons of Rust Bullet Concrete Coating.  I am still deciding if I will use it on my new slab once it's cured- it's white!

1 hour ago, ETI4K said:

A friend gave me 10 gallons of Rust Bullet Concrete Coating.  I am still deciding if I will use it on my new slab once it's cured- it's white!

You might check with the manufacturer and see if it can be colored before application.

3 hours ago, 26th-Z said:

You can expect to spend around $5 / sq. ft. for a nice epoxy floor.  I really like mine.  It can scratch and gouge if you scrape something over it.  Mine is a light tan color and shows dirt real easily but I can clean it up with a Swiffer and it looks great.

My last floor I did DIY it was about $0.30 a foot. Today the same material is about $2.00 a foot

Got my Triumph NSS-8 4-post lift installed.  It operates nicely and was fairly easy to assemble, with the help of two local kids for the heavy parts. Once the framework is assembled,  it's easy to manage by yourself. 

Got my 4 Datsuns and wife's trailer on the RV side of the garage.  Other side has the Jeep, the Elantra and plenty of storage along with boxes that still need to be unpacked. Once the NewAge cabinets come in, I will be about done.  

@motorman7 Very nice Garage!  But.. did you put cardboard under your 4 post and no bolts in the floor??  I would at least make a construction to the walls just to be sure that the lift does not fall when lifting something on it, like when you lift one axle on a car your working on, it will be very dangerous to work on a car on a lift thats not attached to the floor..  ( If you have a heated floor and can't drill holes in it?  always make (detailed) pictures of the tubes before you cover them with concrete. (write the dimensions on the floor so it's in the picture. ........yes for future people that read this.)

Floor is not heated, but yes I should definitely bolt the lift down once I settle on a final location for it. I put the cardboard down to avoid scratching the epoxy floor. 

The lift actually has rollers so you can move it around which I like.  With rollers attached. Putting the lift all the way down lifts the 4 posts.

Edited December 25, 20213 yr by motorman7

It’s funny, I wondered if I was bolted down too. At work we have a heavy duty 4 post lift and my boss says they don’t require them to be bolted down. Ours is.


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I would definitely feel more comfortable with it bolted down. I am always a little hesitant to pass underneath it and always check all 4 locking latches after setting it in place.

From a mechanical standpoint; without being secured, based on the post and crossbar design, I doubt it could fail in the fore and aft direction. I do think with some coercion it could fail in the side to side direction with a heavy load. It would be an interesting,  albeit expensive, experiment to see what it would take to fail. 

22 hours ago, motorman7 said:

once I settle on a final location for it

I would place it a foot more to the right.. then you can walk around the post and still drive a car next to the lift..  Have you seen the lift that "hoovie" has got in his garage?  It's Hoovies garage on you tube.. haha crazy guy.. with... to much money! 😮

 

Edited December 26, 20213 yr by dutchzcarguy

Well, it has been long overdue, but I finally had a 2 post lift installed on Tuesday.  It is a 9,000 lb. symmetrical lift I got from the Lift Superstore.  They have a shop about an hour from me.  Two guys delivered it and installed it in about 4 hours.

I am going to christen it tomorrow by doing the brakes on my truck.

 

 

 

Hey!  Looks good!  I'm jealous.