I have the engine out with the trans bolts out and it's separated about a 1/2" from the bell housing.   I can't seam to get the trans completely separated Any ideas ?

The pilot bushing and pilot shaft can wear and get stuck.  Also the splines on the clutch disc can get crud buildup and/or rust.  

Did you get the two small bolts on the bottom removed?  They attach the dust plate to the trans.  Easy to miss they're small, on the bottom, and usually covered in greasy grime.

I've had the same problem. Getting the weight distribution even is a pita.  See if you can get a jack on the tranny and get the weight off then some stiff putty knives or chisels or tire spoons or screwdrivers and work around it till it pops loose. Good luck.

Wiggle, wiggle, pull usually works if all of the bolts are out.  Grab the tail, work it back and forth and pull.  Or push it back in and get some inertia going, it might pop free.  They do get stuck, so that's normal.  Make sure it's supported.  They're heavy.

Not sure what I would do with out all your help, sure enough the two greasy little screws were holding me up, also put the floor jack under to level it out and it came right off.

Thank you.

I'm back, now I need to know how to break the flywheel bolts loose, the crankshaft turns

I use a length of box section bolted to the block to lock the flywheel:

Impact wrench works for me.

Get a box end wrench and a dead blow to simulate an impact wrench. Put wrench ( box end) on the bolt , hit wrench with 3lb dead blow to break bolts loose. It might take a couple of tries . I leave the spark plugs in to make the engine more difficult to turn over . 

I made something like jonbill did from an old piece of trailer hitch hardware.  Same concept, get a strong piece of metal that will jam in to a tooth.

Be aware that Nissan used some pretty strong threadlocker from the factory install.   Either that or somebody else did when they worked on mine. If it's never been off those bolts might take some real effort.  The bolts should have been torqued to 100 ft-lbs so will need at least that to break free.

I've seen a unique method with a bent valve (flat valve face keys into the tooth of the flywheel) and the end of the valve seats into a starter mounting hole.

Sorry, never took a picture of it - If I recall it correctly, the valve stem bent 90 degrees.

Geometry, Geometry, Geometry, Geometry... why didn't I pay more attention in high school...

Any method of removing the flywheel bolts that uses the starter ring teeth comes with the risk of possibly breaking those teeth.

This method was posted by one of the members here years ago, I can't get access to the back of the L28 at the moment but I think you'll get the idea. Our cars come with many pieces that will do the job well, even a scrap of metal with 2 holes drilled in it will work,  You don't have to tighten the bolts hard and it best to use a spare bolt for the engine block hole just in case it bends  a bit.  Better a 25 cent bolt that a flywheel ring gear.