Some weeks ago I decided to swap the old distributor with a 1-2-3 Ignition with Bluetooth, a relative simple operation (I have it on 2 other cars) an hour later I was ready to rumble, and nothing happened at all?

Seek and you shall find? So I began, to search for any errors made during my install, checked the coil, spark plugs, replaced the old resistor, replaced the spark plug wiring, re-timed it etc.. what ever I did, i was no nearer to solve the problem?

The engine cranked, but no spark? checked resistance in the coil, distributor cap, cables and so on, every things seemed to be in good order...?

It was a mystery? everything worked flawless before the swap? seeking the internet, gave me several different answers, but no ideal solution on the subject, so I went back to square one, replaced the 1-2-3 with the old distributor, timed it once again, checked everything was hooked up as it should, even replaced the battery with a new one (fully charged) and even the starter motor, with a high-torque from Wosp.

Cranked it.... no spark?!? The frustration began to show and I was running out of ideas as fast as I spend money on parts that could corse the trouble!

A month ago, I was replacing the gear lever rubber boot, and I had taken the console and the fuse-box out, to have more room to work on, I had put everything back together, making sure that everything was reconnected the right way! Just to be sure, I decided to take a second look, and took it apart once more.

The fuse box and the fuses seemed ok, I measured everything with a voltmeter and the Ohms where flowing as it should, I checked the wiring for the radio, fuel pump, rear heated window all lights green...

I found the lead cable WR that goes on the backside of the fuse box, in good working order, and attached as it should, I followed this wire, as it splits and the other goes to a single pin connecter all the way back in the harness near the radio.

For the first time, I could see some kind of evidence that could lead to a positive solution on my starting issue, the wire was, hard as stone, the insulation was cracked and the copper was visible? In my mind this could have caused a short cut as there are plenty of steel the wire could rub against or the current to jump, and the power will not get to the ignition switch?

I´ve checked the WR from where I found the bare copper till the  back of the 6 pin connector back at the switch, the wire is flexible and the voltmeter shows that current are flowing, so I´m positive that I found the problem?

So, this evening I found the right connectors etc. on vintageconnections.com and now I just have to wait for it to arrive, and I can finally ( I bloody hope) start it up..?

 

Looks like you're on a good track to find the problem.  Let us know how it goes when you get the parts..

 

Seems like a daft question, have you tried taking a fused wired directly to the coil from the battery + terminal to the coil!?

 

If she fires up you can stop the engine by pulling the fuse! ;) But at least you know for sure the problem is car wiring.

 

A word of warning on the 123 - don't trust the no.1 marking on the cap. Check the position of the rotor relative to the cap. I stupidly didn't and with timing 120degrees out, blew my muffler trying to start - at least I knew there was a spark :p