I have a76 280Z refurbished AFM (from MSA) that has only been on the car for a couple of months. I'd like to put on my 77 280Z. It is a 7 pin 3 hole mount and looks exactly the same as my current AFM that's on the car.

It has a tag with " FUEL INJECTION CORPORATION " and the #170348.

 

Assuming you are asking if you should or not, go for it.

Only the 78 has a unique AFM without the internal fuel pump switch. 

Yes, it will work. All afm's before Aug 1977 will work fine.

Like zKars said, the ones after July 1977 on the 280Z and 280ZX don't have the fuel pump switch. Thay also have the seven pin connector, but miss two pins.

Edited December 27, 20186 yr by EuroDat
Photo

Thanks Eurodat. I remember reading somewhere that 75 and 76 were interchangeable but they could be used on a 77 but would need to be recalibrated.  If so are the any sites that might show you how to. Thanks

The ONLY website I can recommend for doing any kind of adjustment to the afm is atlanticz. Many thanks to @240260280z for putting in all the effort and sharing.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

One piece of advice. I have four of these afm's, all from different years 1976 to 1982 and only one was off (given some tolerences in meassuring) when I followed the steps mentioned in the "water calibration". The glue on the screw was also clearly tampered with. Someone had played with it before. Do the water calibration CHECK before you start adjusting.

Btw: Contrary to what some people my think, this is not aperformance adjustment. It will make the engine run in tune, but decreasing the spring tension to mislead the ecu won't give you more horsepower. If you have problems with "ECU drift", there is a modification in the temperature sensor resistance to compensate for that.

The only real differences I know of in the 75 to 77 AFM's is the blow back valve in the early version/Fed version. The very early 12-74 to 06-75 are actually Bosch units.

Some photo's of one of my afm's and the calibration check.

Edited December 27, 20186 yr by EuroDat
Adddd differences in early version

Royal Club Shandy:   Beer Advocate's rating?   1.65 out of 5  (Awful)

Sounds like the perfect beverage to use for the AFM calibration check! 

Here’s a good Z AFM video I watched some time ago that I found educational.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

19 hours ago, chiefmd said:

Thanks Eurodat. I remember reading somewhere that 75 and 76 were interchangeable but they could be used on a 77 but would need to be recalibrated.  If so are the any sites that might show you how to. Thanks

I don't think that Nissan changed the calibration of the AFMs over the 280Z years.  The engines are essentially identical.  And the atlanticz calibration procedure is not year specific so it won't help, unless somebody else messed with it and you want to get back to spec.  And, I have a 1978 AFM that has the fuel pump contact switch.  It's just not used.  The 1978 wiring diagram even shows it but labels it as "useless".   

Anyway, if it's a new MSA refurb product you probably don't want to mess with it.  Just put it on and run it.  Mess with it if it has problems.

I have several AFMs that I picked up over the past year to have backups. When I was investigating my idle problems I decided to try one of my backup AFMs on my car that successfully past the bench tests. What I discovered was the my 77 has a different mount bolt pattern than the 76 AFM I pulled out of a yard. Has anyone else seen this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the bolt pattern is a known thing.  MSA mentions it, and shows the other bracket on the bottom of their AFM page.  I've seen people zip tie them in place.

Somebody with free time, a leaf blower, a battery, and a meter must have the urge to compare AFM's.  

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040

 

The three bolt pattern version is most probably the early bosch type. Or they are using 3.0L Alfa, Mercedes, Pergeot, Opel AFM's as cores.

Really appreciate all the input. I think I'll just perform the basic pin/ohm checks and if all checks out install and see what happens. Again thanks

I had heard that the sweep style of the later AFM's was different than the earlier ones... Something like the ZX's used a logarithmic sweep for the voltage while the earlier Z's used a linear output?

I have no input as to the validity of that, but I think I read it on the internets.