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vintage dashes 280z


Dave WM

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9 minutes ago, HusseinHolland said:

Ok - they just replied to my message on FB, and I went ahead & bought one of the two non-blem dashes he had.

Maybe my message got him looking. I'm glad you're getting taken care of.

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its a nice looking dash, just make sure you install it as deeply onto the metal frame as possible. the mount holes allow for some movement, you want the dash as far back as possible to avoid spaces at the instruments and the sides where if fits next to the door openings. I had to tweek the instrument mounts a tiny bit to shove them forward just enough so there would be no visible gaps. the sides are not as important since you cant see the gaps unless the door is open, but if you are aware of the issue you maybe able to get the dash on deep enough to avoid any problems. I did not notice the door issue until after I had it installed, not a big enough deal to remove and try to shove back more on the metal frame. You will be glad when done. One last thing, work on the glove  box door mounting area. check the OE dash materail thickness around the opening and try to get the same with the replacement dash. You may have to thin out some of the foam backing around the plastic where it cut open for the glove box.

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24 minutes ago, HusseinHolland said:

Ok - they just replied to my message on FB, and I went ahead & bought one of the two non-blem dashes he had.

I also took one of his blemished initial units when they first started selling them.  Honestly, it looked really clean and was not able to tell there was any defects.  Maybe I just lucked out, but hope you get a good dash.  

I have pics posted in the]is tread if you want to check it out.  Good luck!

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1 minute ago, YZFMax said:

I also took one of his blemished initial units when they first started selling them.  Honestly, it looked really clean and was not able to tell there was any defects.  Maybe I just lucked out, but hope you get a good dash.  

I have pics posted in the]is tread if you want to check it out.  Good luck!

I was just reviewing earlier posts, so I'll look for yours. He said no blem stock, so I went for the full whack. I certainly expect it will be superlative, based on what I've seen so far. The one they had pictured as a blem for $1000, had obvious defects around the small gauge pods. I figured they wouldn't be visible from the driver's seat. That one was sold, however.

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2 minutes ago, HusseinHolland said:

I was just reviewing earlier posts, so I'll look for yours. He said no blem stock, so I went for the full whack. I certainly expect it will be superlative, based on what I've seen so far. The one they had pictured as a blem for $1000, had obvious defects around the small gauge pods. I figured they wouldn't be visible from the driver's seat. That one was sold, however.

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32 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

its a nice looking dash, just make sure you install it as deeply onto the metal frame as possible. the mount holes allow for some movement, you want the dash as far back as possible to avoid spaces at the instruments and the sides where if fits next to the door openings. I had to tweek the instrument mounts a tiny bit to shove them forward just enough so there would be no visible gaps. the sides are not as important since you cant see the gaps unless the door is open, but if you are aware of the issue you maybe able to get the dash on deep enough to avoid any problems. I did not notice the door issue until after I had it installed, not a big enough deal to remove and try to shove back more on the metal frame. You will be glad when done. One last thing, work on the glove  box door mounting area. check the OE dash materail thickness around the opening and try to get the same with the replacement dash. You may have to thin out some of the foam backing around the plastic where it cut open for the glove box.

Thanks for the tips - I think I watched a video (yours?) that illustrated the potential issue with the glue box opening. I definitely noted comments on pressing the dash as far onto the metal frame as possible.

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So, while I do still recommend cleaning and painting inside the gauges when you have them out, I've gone to the dark side (or probably LIGHT) on the gauge bulbs... After I replaced my H4 bulbs in the headlights with 10K lumen LED's I decided to go LED with everything else in the world - including the gauge bulbs. Yup, much brighter - they work really well with the rheostat so they also dim very well if I want. The LED's in the gauges are still a bit "brassier" than I like (I've been under Thomas Edison incandescent (yellow) bulbs for the first 65 years of my life), They don't annoy me to the point of returning to the little glowing filament. The load is now much less on my turn signal switch as well. Speaking of - I used LED's in the turn signal pilots and now my "blinker" indicators are WAY too bright - especially at night. On the one hand good - cuz I barely hear the tick of the flasher unit in my old age - but on the other hand it hurts my poor old eyes to look at them...

Edited by cgsheen1
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