Wont run right after headers

[Zed Head]

Can't really emphasize enough how important it is to measure values against specs., for the EFI systems, and also how easy it is.  All of these suggestions will show up on your meter at the ECU connector, except for a damaged FPR.

[Pochie45566]

Just thought I’d give an update. 

I let it sit overnight and went out in the morning with my multimeter, took out the ecu, realized my meter was dead. So I put it back together and started it and it ran fine. No idea how it got fixed but nothing less. Sounds awesome now. 

[Zed Head]

I had a thought about your low idle problem - blow through the hoses and AAR to be sure that when the AAR is open air can actually make it from one side of the throttle blade to the other.  That is all that the AAR is for, bypassing the throttle blade.  It sounds like the air is not making it past the blade.  Air supply controls engine speed.

Good luck.

 

[Pochie45566]

5 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I had a thought about your low idle problem - blow through the hoses and AAR to be sure that when the AAR is open air can actually make it from one side of the throttle blade to the other.  That is all that the AAR is for, bypassing the throttle blade.  It sounds like the air is not making it past the blade.  Air supply controls engine speed.

Good luck.

 

I just blew through the whole AAR system and air flows through pretty well. Only bottleneck is the AAR. If I knew how to effectively adjust the damn thing this problem would be through. I can’t figure out how to adjust it, the set screw doesn’t seem to do anything 

[rcb280z]

3 hours ago, Pochie45566 said:

the set screw doesn’t seem to do anything

once you loosen it you can slide it up and down. But I wouldn't mess with it if it was working before you replaced the header. Maybe some pics of the top of the intake and anywhere your hands may have been.

To me it sounds like what was mentioned in post #4. Have you been able to do the ECU connector test yet?

[Pochie45566]

11 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

once you loosen it you can slide it up and down. But I wouldn't mess with it if it was working before you replaced the header. Maybe some pics of the top of the intake and anywhere your hands may have been.

To me it sounds like what was mentioned in post #4. Have you been able to do the ECU connector test yet?

The issue that happened after the headers has been solved. That issue was that the engine was missing and wouldn't rev up at all. 

I think that Zed Head is referring to an earlier post of mine where I am diagnosing a low idle upon cold start issue. I do not have fast idle on startup and I can't find the issue for the life of me. I also can't seem to adjust my AAR which you would suspect was the cause of this issue. I have tried two AAR valves and the problem is consistent with both of them. 

[rcb280z]

3 minutes ago, Pochie45566 said:

The issue that happened after the headers has been solved

I see that now. Missed that one.

[Zed Head]

14 hours ago, Pochie45566 said:

I think that Zed Head is referring to an earlier post of mine where I am diagnosing a low idle upon cold start issue. I do not have fast idle on startup and I can't find the issue for the life of me. 

Actually I saw your post on that other site.  

Can you raise the idle speed using the TB adjustment?  Raise the cold idle speed and see if it gets too high when the engine is warm.  That's a clue.  If you can't get the cold idle speed up then you have some other problem besides the AAR.

So you might be over-focusing on adjusting the AAR.  If the AAR is open then the other possibility is that it never closes while it's on the engine.  Have you confirmed that the AAR plug has power?  It should have constant power when the engine is running.  If it doesn't have power then it will take a long time to close, or might never close if the coolant block under it doesn't get hot. 

If you really want to test the function of the rest of the system, without the AAR in place, buy a small valve, put a couple of hose barbs on it, and put it in place of the AAR.  Start the engine and open the valve until you have the idle speed you want.  As the engine warms up, idle speed will increase.  When the engine is hot, close the valve, the engine speed should drop.  Adjust idle speed to desired warm engine level.  Do this a couple of times and you'll have a good feel for what the AAR is supposed to do.

 

Edited January 6, 2019 by Zed Head

[Zed Head]

Forgot to say, the other simple test to see if the AAR passage is open but the AAR not closing is to pinch the hose shut.  If the hoses are new you can do it, if they're old stock hoses they might split.

Which is another possible reason that the AAR doesn't work right.  The hoses are split.

[Pochie45566]

56 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Forgot to say, the other simple test to see if the AAR passage is open but the AAR not closing is to pinch the hose shut.  If the hoses are new you can do it, if they're old stock hoses they might split.

Which is another possible reason that the AAR doesn't work right.  The hoses are split.

If I raise the idle speed at the TB it gets too high once the engine is up to temp. I think my issue is outside of the AAR but I honestly don’t know where to go from here. No air is leaking past the AAR once it’s closed and the plug does have power. 

[Zed Head]

21 minutes ago, Pochie45566 said:

If I raise the idle speed at the TB it gets too high once the engine is up to temp. I think my issue is outside of the AAR but I honestly don’t know where to go from here. No air is leaking past the AAR once it’s closed and the plug does have power. 

I kind of feel like I'm harassing you but I'll give another shot.  Break your problem down in to what is supposed to happen and compare it to what really happens.  And try some of the things that people suggest.  At this point, you should have tried pinching the hose.  This would have confirmed that the hose routing is correct.  You should also have connected the AAR to the plug and confirmed that it was closing when the engine was running.  Your last post suggests that it is not closing, or that the hoses are incorrectly routed.

Pinch the hose after the engine gets up to speed.  If idle speed drops the hoses are correct, if they don't then they're not.  If idle speed drops then disconnect the hoses and take the AAR, or  take your spare AAR, and connect it to the power plug, in a position that you can see the blade.  Confirm that the AAR closes when the engine is running.  If it doesn't than make sure the plug has power with the engine running.

Good luck.  Write things out in the sequence that they are supposed to happen and things will become clear.  You've covered the basics but just haven't put them in order.

[Pochie45566]

57 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I kind of feel like I'm harassing you but I'll give another shot.  Break your problem down in to what is supposed to happen and compare it to what really happens.  And try some of the things that people suggest.  At this point, you should have tried pinching the hose.  This would have confirmed that the hose routing is correct.  You should also have connected the AAR to the plug and confirmed that it was closing when the engine was running.  Your last post suggests that it is not closing, or that the hoses are incorrectly routed.

Pinch the hose after the engine gets up to speed.  If idle speed drops the hoses are correct, if they don't then they're not.  If idle speed drops then disconnect the hoses and take the AAR, or  take your spare AAR, and connect it to the power plug, in a position that you can see the blade.  Confirm that the AAR closes when the engine is running.  If it doesn't than make sure the plug has power with the engine running.

Good luck.  Write things out in the sequence that they are supposed to happen and things will become clear.  You've covered the basics but just haven't put them in order.

Thanks for writing all of this up. I appreciate the guidance and I’ll try to nail down this problem. Writing it all out as I go. On paper that is hahah. Thanks!