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Spare engine N42


Dave WM

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I made a thing out of some steel I had laying around. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53335-starter-mount-plate-for-transmissionless-starter-usage/

If you have an old EFI harness and some extra parts, or some old carbs, you could get it running.  It might have some surface rust on seats of the valves that were open while it was sitting.  Even some starter fluid through the manifold with just a distributor might be worth doing for just some short blasts of power to reseat the valves.

Harbor Freight has some nice small dollies that will hold an engine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies.html

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1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

I made a thing out of some steel I had laying around. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53335-starter-mount-plate-for-transmissionless-starter-usage/

If you have an old EFI harness and some extra parts, or some old carbs, you could get it running.  It might have some surface rust on seats of the valves that were open while it was sitting.  Even some starter fluid through the manifold with just a distributor might be worth doing for just some short blasts of power to reseat the valves.

Harbor Freight has some nice small dollies that will hold an engine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies.html

Just an experiment here to see if I can get the links to go hyper.  Sorry, it didn't work.  Wait, the Harbor Freight link did on the second try.  Don't know why they don't paste in correctly.

Edited by Zed Head
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I put it away for the day, filled the cylinders with marvel oil, will let that soak in, then drain out. I have a trans that I can bolt on, have to get a starter. Not sure I want to go the whole start up route, just would like to know the mechanicals are sound. I do have the complete EFI, harness and all the manifolds that came with it. Maybe if I get motivated...

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I think just for the heck of it I am going to hook up my simpson 260 VOM to that oil pressure sending unit to see what 40psi looks like on the resistance reading.

I will also repeat the test with a teaspoon of oil poured into each spark plug hole. Just want to see how consistent across the cylinders the readings will be.

Based on what I am seeing so far, I don't see a need in a engine rebuild. This is a spare to try stuff out on (like replacing the valve guide seals). The preliminary results of these test tell me the engine while not in great shape, it certainly is in good shape and would prob be fine as is.

Edited by Dave WM
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re tested with teaspoon of oil in plug hole. 175-180 on all #6 intake was a bit tight, could not get the .008 feeler in, adjusted (I thought I had checked this prior to all the testing). Done with testing. will put back on the engine stand. I plan to try the valve guide seal replacement using the OHC tool that compresses the valve springs with the head on. I wanted to do this to my driver, but was waiting on a practice engine.

The resistance of the oil sender did not change per my VOM, so I presume its bad.

 

Edited by Dave WM
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  • 2 weeks later...

The more I think about it the more I am inclined to see if I can get it started AS IS. I have everything needed (manifolds/ECU/harness). Only have to build a jig for a test stand, maybe a better way to attach the starter (without having to add on the transmission), but that is not that big a deal.

I attempted to use the OHC valve spring compressor just to see how it works of valve seal replacement (with out head removal). I tried using compressed air (100psi) to hold the valve up, but that just did not work. I kept cracking the seal when I attempted to compress the valve spring. Guess the rope stuffed in spark plug hole is more reliable.

Anyway off to refurbing the manifold (new FI hoses), and will at least click check the fuel injectors with a 9v  battery. if the click will batch fire them with a battery (and resistor) with the manifold un installed just to make sure all are spraying.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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