Car wont run triple webers

[hatepotholez]

Hi Guys,

Just installed a rebuilt set of 40DCOE's. I can't seem to get the car running. Is their only 2 adjustments, the throttle linkage adjustment at the base of the car and the idle mixture screw by the rear. I did notice a few plugs have gas on them and there was plenty of gas in each carb. Is their any other adjustment I am missing? Also what is everyone using to block the fuel first fuel line and the coolant lines to the old SU's? Finally who sells the throttle linkage?

Thanks!

 

 

[Mark Maras]

@240260280z

[siteunseen]

google searched the linkage kit number from Redline, 99006.729

 https://www.google.com/search?q=99006.729+linkage+kit&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiV2Y_mz_zfAhVM1VkKHSRSCnEQ_AUICSgA&biw=1280&bih=606&dpr=1.25

@240260280 bought these of mine but I can't remember the name on the linkage arms.

Edited January 20, 2019 by siteunseen

[jonbill]

There might also be throttle stops per carb.
This is a good book on setup.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1845849590/ref=dbs_a_w_dp_1845849590

I'd start with making sure the throttles are closed at rest and adjust the linkages so all 3 throttles start to move at the same time.
Idle mixture screws I think should be a couple of full turns out from fully closed (but not sure of this, I don't have Webers).

Have a look down the bore of each choke in turn as you open the throttle briskly and you should see a squirt of fuel going toward the engine. (3 pumps should be plenty for cold start even without choke, too many pumps will flood it).
If the carbs are reasonably assembled and no big air leaks at manifold it really should start like that.

[240260280]

There is a lot to setting up triple webers.  In a nutshell:

 

1. Engine is in good order (valves, ignition, timing, plugs, wires, manifold sealing, etc).

2. Linkage is non-binding and has exactly the same start, stop, and throw distances on all 3 carbs.

3. The carbs are in good order.

4. The jets, chokes, fuel levels, series number, etc are the same on all carbs AND you are in the ball park for jet and choke sizes for your engine/application

5. You have the tools and knowledge to tune triple webers: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

 

Get one of these for sure:

or

[hatepotholez]

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

There is a lot to setting up triple webers.  In a nutshell:

 

1. Engine is in good order (valves, ignition, timing, plugs, wires, manifold sealing, etc).

2. Linkage is non-binding and has exactly the same start, stop, and throw distances on all 3 carbs.

3. The carbs are in good order.

4. The jets, chokes, fuel levels, series number, etc are the same on all carbs AND you are in the ball park for jet and choke sizes for your engine/application

5. You have the tools and knowledge to tune triple webers: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

 

Get one of these for sure:

or

Your website is such a helpful resource, i’ve must of been on the site a few times. The first 2 carbs are not squirting from the accelerator pump jet. I cleaned out the jets and removed the accelerator pump with no success. I also then blew compressed air into the accelerator pump passage and the accelerator jet passage still no success. I can feel air coming from the accelerator pump passage to the accelerator jet circuit but no gas. 

 

 

[hatepotholez]

7 hours ago, jonbill said:

There might also be throttle stops per carb.
This is a good book on setup.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1845849590/ref=dbs_a_w_dp_1845849590

I'd start with making sure the throttles are closed at rest and adjust the linkages so all 3 throttles start to move at the same time.
Idle mixture screws I think should be a couple of full turns out from fully closed (but not sure of this, I don't have Webers).

Have a look down the bore of each choke in turn as you open the throttle briskly and you should see a squirt of fuel going toward the engine. (3 pumps should be plenty for cold start even without choke, too many pumps will flood it).
If the carbs are reasonably assembled and no big air leaks at manifold it really should start like that.

I actually have the Pat Braden Weber book, I also have DCOE’s on my Alfa but I haven’t touch those in years. I think i might be missing the balls that go in the accelerator circuit under the weights because there’s no gas in those circuits. 

Edited January 21, 2019 by hatepotholez

[240260280]

Is the fuel bleeder on the bottom of the fuel bowl blocked?

[hatepotholez]

9 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Is the fuel bleeder on the bottom of the fuel bowl blocked?

not that I saw, even tried with out it. 

Edited January 21, 2019 by hatepotholez
added video

[jonbill]

At least you've got one working one to compare too, and a good book.
On my Dellortos the problem with the accelerator pumps is always the one way valve gets gummed up if the carbs aren't used for a while and sit with fuel in them.

[gnosez]

Another good reason to run either 110 or a mix of 110 and 93. Carbs have sat for months and fire up on the first turn of the key (or starter button - race car)

[hatepotholez]

ok guys some good news. I got the carbs back from a rebuilder, got the car to idle at 950-1000. It needs some fine tuning. From what I am understanding there are 2 main adjustments, mixture and idle speed(throttle stop). Also I can't get the synchrometer to read below 5 and some 7.

Also what setup are you guys using for the main throttle linkage return spring? I am using the 280z adjustable hook and I bought a metal linkage(don't want to use the original plastic ball rods) from that to the crank, just need one more metal linkage from the gas pedal to the crank. Does someone sell a kit to mount a bracket on the valve cover and a return spring?  I was told to go to home depot and get a spring, unsure which one to get.

Thanks!

Edited September 15, 2019 by hatepotholez