Re keying door locks

[Captain Obvious]

About the face caps... It's certainly easy to mangle a face cap beyond usability, but with careful removal, it is also possible to put the same one back on and crimp it back into place after messing with the rest of the lock guts.

I'm not sure if all the years are the same, but by the time they got to 77, the hatch face caps are easy. There are only three easily bendable tabs holding the face cap in place:

[Zup]

@Patcon 

Nope those won't fit---the face caps are vehicle specific to a large degree---outside diameter, inner hole diameter and profile--so as to fit the cylinder housing properly.

Early Subaru locks and components will interchange. The ASP numbers I posted above are the correct Datsun caps for 70 thru 78. I know what I need to order, just have to get a locksmith who will work with me.

 

 

 

 

[Captain Obvious]

The doors, however, are a lot more difficult. I think I've posted some of these pics a long time ago (before Photobucket went hostile)...

I made a back-up anvil fixture to support the door lock face cap so it wouldn't get distorted while I pried up the crimped over edge. Here's the support anvil. I made it out of brass so it would be a little softer than the face cap and not mar the stainless face cap:

And here's how a door lock fits into the fixture:

With the door lock face down in the support anvil, I was able to pry around the edge of the face cap and open up the crimped seam:

And after that... I stopped taking pics. I'm guessing that it got warm and I had to drive the Z.

I've got a number of spare door locks. I'll take one apart and continue the photo documentary from here.

[Zup]

@Captain Obvious

Yep three tabs on the hatch lock face cap---same till 78.

I'm looking at Jones Spring Company for small torsion springs for the dust shutter and Subaru locksets for missing pieces like the shutter itself.

Jeez C.O.--- you can answer twice to my once.

Carry on Capt'n!

Very nice holder fixture you fabricated there Sir. I've only stabbed myself three times tonight trying to pry face cap edges with my small screwdriver. I'm giving it up for the eve. Too much blood loss.

Edited February 2, 2019 by Zup

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! It's all that training on the flip phone. Fast thumbs.

I type with them too.    

[Zup]

Ha--- sometimes mine aren't even opposable.

[Patcon]

13 hours ago, Zup said:

@Patcon 

Nope those won't fit---the face caps are vehicle specific to a large degree---outside diameter, inner hole diameter and profile--so as to fit the cylinder housing properly.

Early Subaru locks and components will interchange. The ASP numbers I posted above are the correct Datsun caps for 70 thru 78. I know what I need to order, just have to get a locksmith who will work with me.

 

 

 

 

Keep me in the loop. I may have 2 different locksmith's that might order them for me. I am also working on getting a tumbler kit. I ordered some pliers last night. I believe they are on a slow boat from China

[Zup]

@Patcon

Roger that! My tumbler (wafer) kit will be here soon. I'll post up the face cap, lock cylinder, and wafer numbers again as I found from ASP website. You might take the numbers to your smithys and see if they can get them from a wholesale automotive lock supplier. We'd organize a "group buy in" to cover the costs and distribute the individual pieces.

@S30Driver and I discussed buying a pair of the Gator brand pliers (professional quality) and doing a loaner program similar to the "Spindle pin puller" done previously by members here, but that is a large cash outlay up front.

KLOM makes a pair of these cap pliers that appears to be mid-range quality between the DHgate and Gator offerings. I like the re-seal feature of the KLOM, DHgate and Gator pliers, verses the cap removal only feature of the removal plier types.

[Patcon]

6 hours ago, Zup said:

@Patcon

Roger that! My tumbler (wafer) kit will be here soon. I'll post up the face cap, lock cylinder, and wafer numbers again as I found from ASP website. You might take the numbers to your smithys and see if they can get them from a wholesale automotive lock supplier. We'd organize a "group buy in" to cover the costs and distribute the individual pieces.

@S30Driver and I discussed buying a pair of the Gator brand pliers (professional quality) and doing a loaner program similar to the "Spindle pin puller" done previously by members here, but that is a large cash outlay up front.

KLOM makes a pair of these cap pliers that appears to be mid-range quality between the DHgate and Gator offerings. I like the re-seal feature of the KLOM, DHgate and Gator pliers, verses the cap removal only feature of the removal plier types.

How large of a wafer kit did you source? The ASP one?

I ordered the KLOM's for that reason. All of the sources I found for them online seemed to all be direct ship out of China

[Captain Obvious]

So I found my box of lock related stuff... Unfortunately, there wasn't any definitive help in there about which specific donor I used for the springs. The notes on the bag indicate that it was a NIssan model and there is no mention of Honda parts:

And I did find the following spring stuff together in one small bag. Not conclusive, but indicates that I did NOT use half of the two section spring:

All indications are that I  used the one that looks like this. Probably clipped the ends off and maybe shortened it a turn or two so it would fit between the hinge holes on the hatch keyhole door:

 

[Captain Obvious]

And some words of experience about reusing the original locks... Every original lock I've ever opened up (with the exception of the rarely used glove box lock) has been a mess inside. Corroded. Pitted. Grooves worn where there shouldn't be grooves. Wafer / tumblers worn and sometimes bent. The pot metal they used for the lock body castings was probably chosen more for cost and it's ability to cast fine detail than it was for it's longevity.

 And the corresponding keys were worn as well, meaning that even replacing the wafers with new ones might not fix a sticky lock problem.

The point is...... All you guys buying face cap pliers thinking you're going to open up and rebuild your original door locks?  Based on my experience, you're going to find a worn, corroded, rusty, grooved, hunk of what used to be a lock. I would probably recommend buying a new set of door locks off ebay and opening them up and rekeying them to the rest of your car instead. If you can get new replacements that use the same blank as the rest of the car, then that would be a much better way to go.

New versions of both the ignition locks and door locks are available. The ones you can't get are hatch and glove box, and thankfully those two usually got much less use than the doors and ignition and stand a better chance of being salvageable.

Of course, YMMV.

[Patcon]

I was working more along the lines of being able to combine all the locks I have to rebuild a good set of locks all keyed together. I have a few locks to work with...