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My 280Z cranks but doesn't stay running once started


K Koehn

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yes the FSM is the key. you want to methodically go thru it. couple things that are often overlooked and not really discussed in the FSM is proper grounds on the wire harness, and good electrical connections (no corrosion). Could be something as simple as a blown fuse link or bad chassis ground from the ECU wire harness. Something to watch out for, don't trust wire colors around the battery. Example the ECU wire harness IIRC has two red or two black leads you can not rely on red being positive. More that one ECU has been smoked by reversing the polarity when trying to clean up the connections to the battery. You will need to get used to using a meter to wire trace if in doubt.

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not your exact problem but I talk about listening for clicking. In my case I disabled the ignition by un plugging the center electrode on the cap, and letting it spark thru a plug so the energy had some where to go. In your case there would be no need to disable the spark since it does not start anyway. In my case the issue was a intermittent start switch, it would only turn on the pump in the start mode intermittently, had dead spots. in the run mode it was fine. For your case a fuel pressure gauge hooked up during the diagnosis will help as well, esp if you hear clicking.

 

Edited by Dave WM
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2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

That was probably just the fuel pressure regulator hissing.  The injectors don't spray constantly, they open then close.  Click, click, click.

Does the tachometer work?  The computer uses the same "signal" to fire the injectors.  Points should do the job since the signal comes from the negative post of the coil.  But the blue wire has to be connected to Pin 1.

Yes, my tachometer works, and there is a blue wire in the bay, is that, that blue wire? When I 1st had this issue, I saw that blue wire just out in the open, and I put it up in that little spot right there above the injector not knowing what it did, its next to the thermostat housing

20190124_224932.jpg

Edited by K Koehn
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1 hour ago, rcb280z said:

True. That does actually sound like fuel starved.

Spraying some starter fluid to keep it going might tell the story.

 

I tried spraying some starter fluid a few times and it helped it fire up,it still died out, but, a few times after it'd fire up without it, but lt might just be the Cold start injector firing it up like Zed Head mentioned. I've had my Z for only 10 months, and have had this issue since November 11th last year. Im really new to it still.

Edited by K Koehn
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2 hours ago, rcb280z said:

How long have you had this Z?

Do you know if they installed the correct cap and rotor considering its a points dizzy? IIRC the 70-73 cap and rotor are different from the other years.

Do you know how to adjust and clean points?

Like mentioned above, check spark (looking for strong spark), fuel pressure and if the injectors are firing. Fast clicking sound will be heard.

Look at the spark plugs. They tell you a lot. Not sure then take pics and post.

Im not sure if they installed the right cap or rotor,is there a way to tell? I also don't know how to adjust or clean points as well, I'd Really like to know though, and Ive also been looking around locally for an inline fuel pressure gauge, haven't had any luck yet on that.

Edited by K Koehn
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Wish you were closer to me than about 200 miles and in the winter, I'd come have a look at it.  Verify spark when it's cranking, get a long screwdriver or some kind of listening tube to put against your ear & each injector, again while someone cranks it to check the injectors are clicking.  Double check the firing order of the wires. (153624)  Pull a couple of plugs to see what they look like as others have mentioned.

Could be something as simple as a worn ignition switch good in the start, but not working in the run position when you release the key.  Easy to unplug and temporarily change.

If necessary, depending on what you find,  I can send you a good spare I have to eliminate that possibility.

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ok maybe a little more history would help understand the problem. The car used to run while you owned it, then is stopped one day? was there any event related to it not working (cleaning engine bay, replaced a part, etc....

The biggest problem with remote diagnostics is missing some vital piece of info, hence the need for the FSM as it steps you thru everything.

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10 hours ago, K Koehn said:

Im not sure if they installed the right cap or rotor,is there a way to tell? I also don't know how to adjust or clean points as well, I'd Really like to know though, and Ive also been looking around locally for an inline fuel pressure gauge, haven't had any luck yet on that.

Lowes has a pool pump gauge that will work but you'll have to add the brass barbs on to it to put it in a fuel line. Not so sure they will be willing to get pool supplies in January though.

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10 hours ago, K Koehn said:

Im not sure if they installed the right cap or rotor

Well if you can get it to fire, cap and rotor should be fine. I was thinking out loud when I posted that question which was answered for me.

 

Edited by rcb280z
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2 hours ago, Dave WM said:

ok maybe a little more history would help understand the problem. The car used to run while you owned it, then is stopped one day? was there any event related to it not working (cleaning engine bay, replaced a part, etc....

The biggest problem with remote diagnostics is missing some vital piece of info, hence the need for the FSM as it steps you thru everything.

Yes, the last that it ran was just a normal drive, I stopped at a braums, and went back to the car, and it just all of a sudden would not start. The last part I put on was a new water pump and fan clutch, the car got hot a few times due to a coolant hose at the radiator blowing off, it kept doing that, and damaged the old water pump in it, the fan clutch I chose to just replace with it, and a time before that, it had needed a new fuel pump relay, I bought that from Zcardepot, the car also had alot of flooding issues, which I may of found out, pulling its old injectors when I did,when it still wasn't running like it is now, one injector was broken. Ive cleaned the engine bay once or twice but not with any pressured water, just hand cleaned with some degreaser on the rag itself, which I did back when I 1st got it, and it had ran great after I replaced the water pump, for about 3 months I'd say, then it just died out of nowhere at braums. I also bought the Z running when I 1st got it, its immediate issue was that fuel pump relay. I found that out because I worked at a nissan as an oil change guy, the mechanics were willing to help a little, they said the past owner had one of the battery cable grounds wrong and it fried that relay, the relay even smoked too when it fried out. One other issue too, is that (when it was still driving) it would cut out and die while driving sometimes

Edited by K Koehn
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7 hours ago, S30Driver said:

Wish you were closer to me than about 200 miles and in the winter, I'd come have a look at it.  Verify spark when it's cranking, get a long screwdriver or some kind of listening tube to put against your ear & each injector, again while someone cranks it to check the injectors are clicking.  Double check the firing order of the wires. (153624)  Pull a couple of plugs to see what they look like as others have mentioned.

Could be something as simple as a worn ignition switch good in the start, but not working in the run position when you release the key.  Easy to unplug and temporarily change.

If necessary, depending on what you find,  I can send you a good spare I have to eliminate that possibility.

I'd Really appreciate that, im gonna try to listen to those injectors and check all of those plugs, I would of by now, but, it is Very cold out all the time, and that Z is sitting outside, I have no garage sadly

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