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240z gets jiggy


ConVerTT

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2 hours ago, wheee! said:

[mention]ConVerTT [/mention]
I think people need a shot of your shop(s) from the outside...
Might help people see the big picture!


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Post classified intel on the world wide web??? I've said too much already ??? #batcave

Edited by ConVerTT
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  • 3 weeks later...

 Well now that the chassis is nice and strong, it's finally time to remove the jig and let the chassis stand on it's own.  I thought about this step when I originally built the jig and made it so that it can be easily unbolted from the shell - everything went as planned....

first step - lift entire assembly and support with jack stands under the shell ....

E7037556-EE74-40EE-99FB-A0AE1030B1E4.jpeg

next - unbolt / remove the two full length runners ...

2F384829-B52F-4331-B343-3EEF42B280CE.jpeg

next - unbolt and stow the individual supports .... 

B4617779-903B-49B4-9016-303C449923C3.jpeg
 

I left the supports at the differential carrier and the front cross member so I can roll the shell around the shop for a few more days until she goes on the rotisserie...

A2011AAF-E2A0-47C7-ADAA-9F0F4E66FD5E.jpeg

Last step - set her back down (or leave her on jack stands for reassembly or whatever- depending on what stage you are at) 

BA8FA5CD-D4F4-45D2-9F28-0488D62B047A.jpeg

The empty shell is very light.  It is stable and rolls around easily without tying the front and back casters together (although it wouldn't take much to bolt on a couple of pieces of angle iron either)

I hope this helps somebody...

Cheers

 

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Hey ConVerTT, Thanks for including me in your last progress update. I have a "shop" question. You are clearly "THE WELDER" among many other things and welding is something  I've wanted to get into for a long time. I've started researching recently but I'll be buying the gear and then diving in (which I've done many times. . . no worries). Please share with me what you would go out and buy tomorrow if your stuff needed to be replaced for whatever reason?  I'm not afraid to spend the money if I know I'm getting good stuff and I don't want to worry about "outgrowing it".  I'm a cabinetmaker and finish carpenter by trade and part-time boatbuilder and I'm doing a Z that needs some but not too much frame and sheet metal work. I would really be grateful for any equipment preferences and insights you might share. Thanks a lot!!  Andy  

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Haha - Thanks!  

No I am just an amateur.  I basically bought the same unit as the guy who showed me how to weld.  It's a Miller 141 - relatively cheap, 120 V but best to run on a 20A circuit, MIGs sheet metal through 3/16 plate (would be fine on 1/4" too).  Uses 0.024 or 0.030 wires.  

 

Edited by ConVerTT
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I'm very impressed with the amount of dedication to do it right. I like a good challenge and the reward of success but I don't have the time, will, or talent to undertake that project. Good Luck!

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  • 4 months later...

Hey ConverTT 

I've just started building this jig for my project. Thanks very much for your detailed dimensions and photos. It’s taking me a while due to lack of previous metal fabrication experience but I will get quicker. 

With the rear diff carrier frame, did you build it with the smaller box section and angle to avoid removing the fuel lines or so during reassembly you could install fuel lines with the frame on? 

Do you recommend getting the the base 3m lengths completely level before you assemble all the frames and attach to chassis? Or doesn’t really matter?

also do you recall the rough size of bolt you used on the jig? 

Ryan

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Kent - just wanted to say a massive thanks from a UK based lurker on this site 🙂  . I'm pretty new to welding and fabrication but your photo's and measurements made it relatively painless to build this design. The car feels absolutely rock solid! Again, thanks for the effort you have gone to in documenting what you did here. Jon.

Edited by tyroguru
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16 hours ago, tyroguru said:

Hey Kent - just wanted to say a massive thanks from a UK based lurker on this site 🙂  . I'm pretty new to welding and fabrication but your photo's and measurements made it relatively painless to build this design. The car feels absolutely rock solid! Again, thanks for the effort you have gone to in documenting what you did here. Jon.

Fantastic - glad to help ...

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Kent @ConVerTT

just wondering if your gearbox support frame was a little short when offering up the 3m lengths up into place? 

I found the gearbox support frame to be the only one that had an issue, the others were fine. Only a 5mm gap so nothing crazy 

I PM’d Jon @tyroguru who also had a similar discrepancy with only his gearbox frame as well.

I did double check all my measurements to yours and all were correct. Might just be a slight discrepancy between chassis’s? These were handmade back in the 60’s/70’s so slight variation is to be expected in my mind. I’m pretty confident my chassis is reasonably straight as I'm sure yours is too. I’m just going to pack the gap with sheet metal and weld in place.

Just thought I would document this for anyone else who builds this jig in the future. I would build the gearbox frame last, offering the 3m lengths up to the other frames and measuring up distance before cutting uprights for gearbox support frame. 

Thanks again Kent for the plans 

Some pictures 

 

EB4D7D46-40C6-4826-9945-5CB6547CA440.jpeg

A208929B-7634-4008-8BC4-EB814FE6D468.jpeg

4D715662-20FD-44F3-B97C-374085580404.jpeg

0CF83693-8D32-4753-AA23-EE7405AC3014.jpeg

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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