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So I figured I would tackle the rest of the bad bodywork on the passenger front end.....

Started by making a copy of the undamaged drivers side ...

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So far, so good ....

 

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Then got the laser out to check the alignment ...

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... and things started heading south ?....

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I knew the previous work was bad but wholly crap - it’s out by more than an inch !  Looks like time for Plan B ....

 

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The backer plate is bent and rusty too . Will have to deal with that tomorrow.  All in all it seems like it will work out though ....

 

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45 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

And without your jig you would be in trouble?, I'm learning lots from this thread.

LOL - yeah - I was thinking that too.  Getting my money’s worth out of it!

15 hours ago, ConVerTT said:

Then got the laser out to check the alignment

When time permits, can you post a couple of photos of your laser, along with the mftr/specs and any comments you have about its use. 

Also: I have the opportunity to buy a Stanley 'Cubix Crossliner' this weekend for $40.  It's marked down from $120, so it seems like a great buy. 

Or it could be just $40 wasted.  I don't know much about these systems and I haven't done any online research yet.

The Stanley unit is described as:

  • Stanley Cubix Cross Line Laser features a quick link bracket and mounting system
  • Accuracy: +/-5/16”
  • Self Leveling Cross Lines: projects bright horizontal and vertical lines onto flat surfaces for common leveling and alignment applications
  • Compact and lightweight design
  • Locking pendulum for setting angled lines and to help prevent damage to internal components
  • Range: 40' (12 m)

I'm not liking that accuracy spec too much, but maybe that's +/- 5/16" when the beam(s) get projected out to the extreme of the 40-foot range?  If so, it would be +/- 1/16" at 10 ft.  Also, it seems that 'accuracy' may not be the issue for the type of auto restoration work being discussed here and that, instead, it's more a question of offering the capability to throw 2 perpendicular lines with independent positioning adjustment, together with a decent, adjustable-and-stable platform.

Your comments appreciated.

Sure.  

So I use a Bosch GLL 30 on a tripod, or on a bottle jack for down low.  Because the jig is already plumb and level, the main issue ensuring infinite height adjustability.

The Bosch doesn’t produce two vertical lines, just one vertical and one horizontal in a cross hair.  So let’s say you are aligning fenders for example.  First you set up the laser on the longitudinal center line of the car.  Then pivot the tripod to dial the laser in to a reference point on one fender.  The pivot it back to  center.  The horizontal laser line will hit both fenders allowing you to check the alignment of the same reference point on the second fender.  

The Bosch has similar accuracy specs to the model you posted (5/16 in 30 ft), which is plenty accurate in my opinion.  So in the fender example, the fenders are 39 inches apart, and you are working from the centerline so 19.5 inches.  I’ll use 3 ft (so I can do the math in my head ?) - accuracy increases to 1/32 “ over that distance, (which I would call negligible).

You can spend more for more accuracy, but I wouldn’t.   Certainly these lasers are well inside the factory tolerances on the day the car was built.  You should be able to get what you need for $50.

I hope this helps ...

 

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So after some hammer and dolly work the backer plate was re-aligned ....D8C6A833-6916-4E0F-8A2E-F4B8EC882E12.jpeg

 

It didn’t look too bad but some of the rust pitting actually went all the way through once I started grinding so ...Plan B again....

 

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It’s not perfect but it’s reasonably close.  I probably could have just patched the holes on the original plate.  I did a couple of mods to Big Bertha last week and wanted to try her out so ...

 

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Bertha got rewired with a proper bi-directional toggle switch and a deadman foot peddle so both hands are completely free to control the work piece ...

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So basically just need to weld her all up

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...

 

 

 

Edited by ConVerTT
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