Cliff,
Let’s wait until I get a 240z and then we can work on running the prices up. I’m still looking [emoji6]


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Here’s some more pics of the car including the frame rail under the battery tray and where the condensate drain tube drips onto the frame

I will throw it up on the lift tomorrow and take more photos of the car underside as well as video the engine running the SU need adjusting but I’ve got it running pretty good not perfect but decent. 

My cell number is 9793245661 the car is in college station tx “gig em aggies whooop”  call or text if interested. 

The new pics show perforation of the firewall adjacent to the top of the battery, which is unusual. Usually what happens is battery acid drips down onto the inner fenderwell right under the battery, and that perforates. But the last pic doesn't show any perforation, which is a big plus. That area can be fixed, but if you want it to look right you need to have someone with an English wheel form new metal to replace the perforated metal under the battery that needs to be cut out, and that takes skill and $$.

With this car what needs to be done is to cut out the perforated and thinned firewall area and weld in a new firewall section. If you can get the area that's needed from a donor car that should not be too much trouble. The rest of the pics that Snaponfitz is going to add should show whether the frame rails are OK. If OK then the body shouldn't be too big a job, since some of the areas that often rust, like the narrow horizontal panel at the rear of the hatch opening, isn't rusted, and the rockers look OK from what the pics show.

It needs a LF fender and the 2 headlight scoops, plus probably all of the rubber seals. By that time you might as well get it repainted in 918 orange, one of the best first year colors.

 

Trade for a 2003 Honda S2000?

10 hours ago, M3333hp said:

The new pics show perforation of the firewall adjacent to the top of the battery, which is unusual. Usually what happens is battery acid drips down onto the inner fenderwell right under the battery, and that perforates. But the last pic doesn't show any perforation, which is a big plus. That area can be fixed, but if you want it to look right you need to have someone with an English wheel form new metal to replace the perforated metal under the battery that needs to be cut out, and that takes skill and $$.

With this car what needs to be done is to cut out the perforated and thinned firewall area and weld in a new firewall section. If you can get the area that's needed from a donor car that should not be too much trouble. The rest of the pics that Snaponfitz is going to add should show whether the frame rails are OK. If OK then the body shouldn't be too big a job, since some of the areas that often rust, like the narrow horizontal panel at the rear of the hatch opening, isn't rusted, and the rockers look OK from what the pics show.

It needs a LF fender and the 2 headlight scoops, plus probably all of the rubber seals. By that time you might as well get it repainted in 918 orange, one of the best first year colors.

 

I have a parts car that has the same rust over the top of the battery tray.  The battery tray and surrounding area were fine.

According to a body mechanic, it is a very easy fix since it is flat metal for the most part.  In my case it was caused by the cowl drains getting clogged with leaves and presumably exhaust gases coming from the caps of the battery.

Edited January 30, 20196 yr by 87mj

I don't know guys, I'm seeing a $10,000 car that requires major restoration,  there are tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car and we haven't seen underneath yet.  The car will sell for whatever Lady Luck decides that day but hope the OP will keep his expectations realistic.  So far I think he has priced it right.

@87mj  You could be right about the cowl drains being clogged. The question is how thin is the firewall metal around the perforation. If the surrounding metal is thin, especially below the perforation, and if you want to keep the stamped pattern of the firewall, then you would need to source part of another good firewall for the fix. If the stamped firewall pattern doesn't matter, then a piece of flat sheet metal will do. But if I were paying up for skilled work on the firewall I would want to source a solid piece of real Z car firewall so the finished area would look right. It depends on whether someone wants to just fill the hole or have it be right for when the car gets sold. If the car is ever offered on BaT, say, there will be viewers who will pick up on a flat firewall, and then probably start to wonder what other shortcuts were take. It depends on what you want the car to be when it's done.        

@grannyknot   Yes we definitely need to see the underside. Anyone who has owned one of these cars, and especially anyone who has restored one, or paid someone to restore one that had damaged or rusted body metal would want to see the underside to know what they were getting into. But so far we have not seen the underside, and from the photos that have been posted so far I have not seen "tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car". That seems to me to be a pretty broad / negative statement. 

Like I said earlier, I don't see any signs of rust on the shelf at the rear of the hatch opening for example, which is often rusty in these 50 year old first-year Z cars. Similarly, from what you can see of the rocker panels, I don't see rust perforation there either. Maybe there is some, but so far I don't see it in the posted pictures.

Maybe being a Texas car has saved it, but I have seen way more rusty or butchered cars being offered lately. In my experience I would much rather have an honest, unbutchered early Z car body to work on than so many of the cars that have come out of the woodwork lately.

 

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: 

 

I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning). 

Edited January 30, 20196 yr by zeeboost

On 1/28/2019 at 6:37 PM, M3333hp said:

I would offer to buy your car instantly for your asking, but you deserve to get about double that or more for it, depending on how much of that rust that you mentioned is present.   Good luck with the sale!  

"I refuse to buy your car because the price is too low!"  

How do you know what he deserves?

Anyway.  It's a 240Z in SE Texas, with minor front end damage from some sort of collision.  Getting down there and transporting it will be the big issues.  

53 minutes ago, zeeboost said:

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: 

 

I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning). 

Its not a 10k car internationally!