Barn find 73 in North Alabama

[siteunseen]

1 hour ago, NVZEE said:

Round tops - on an 11/72 build. There are signs of a re-spray. This car might have some stories to tell.

I just saw the photo link. 

[Patcon]

I am a hoarder, so am somewhat biased, but finding another 35k mile 240z in the future you can afford will be a tall order. Provided you sell it...

You could always find a better, dry place to store it for a few years until the business gets going a little bit.

Edited February 5, 2019 by Patcon

[siteunseen]

It's money in the bank if you can keep it.  They've doubled or tripled in value for the last few years.

[outlawswine]

1 minute ago, siteunseen said:

It's money in the bank if you can keep it.  They've doubled or tripled in value for the last few years.

Other than space, there is really no reason for me to get rid of it.  In fact I'm already putting together a parts list of stuff to bring the engine back to life. Belts, hoses, fuel lines, tune up kits, plugs, carb rebuilt kit etc. 

I don't think these are the factory carbs on there though. I think they may be the earlier SU carbs (71 or 72 maybe?)

If you guys know of any 240 guys in Central Alabama, please let me know. I'd love for someone that actually knows what they are looking at to give me their opinion on the condition.

[NVZEE]

Good news and bad on the re-spray. You lose some originality, but also don’t have to treat the paint with kid gloves. Touch-up and detailing  should be easier. Check the floorboards, doglegs, battery area for signs of corrosion.

 

[Zup]

@outlawswine

Don't get me wrong, I am not disparaging your Z. It is very complete and is a very good starting point for refreshment or restoration.

My statement about the mileage is based on what I see that has been replaced on the car and the re-spray at 35,000. It is only my opinion, and I've been wrong about a lot of things in my years.

Cliff ( @siteunseen ) is in Gadsden. He's a for real "wise guy" on these cars!  I mean it! Honest!!

Edited February 5, 2019 by Zup

[outlawswine]

32 minutes ago, Zup said:

@outlawswine

Don't get me wrong, I am not disparaging your Z. It is very complete and is a very good starting point for refreshment or restoration.

My statement about the mileage is based on what I see that has been replaced on the car and the re-spray at 35,000. It is only my opinion, and I've been wrong about a lot of things in my years.

@Zup

No no, no offense at all. When I wrote that comment, that was based off of the information I had at the time. I have been speaking with my Uncle for the last 2 hours or so getting more info and some of the backstory (he likes to tell stories so every conversation is 2 hours long lol). You were EXACTLY right!  Pretty much everything I thought I knew about the car was incorrect. 

Here is what I have found out and it isn't what I thought.....

The car has rolled over, so it is 135k miles. The top end was rebuilt at 90k miles and at that time the SU carbs were put on it.

I was told my family bought it new but that was incorrect. They bought it with 110k miles on it. They only put 25k miles on it, that is why I was under the impression that 35k was correct. The car was purchased new by a Birmingham, Al pharmacist from Bill Whiten Datsun in Ensley, Al. My uncle purchased it in 1983 and sold it to my Grandfather about 5 or so years later in 88 or 89. That is when the car was resprayed.  The car was parked a few years later and was never cranked again.

The seats were recovered in 1984 with reproduction seat covers.

Edited February 5, 2019 by outlawswine

[jonathanrussell]

Awesome find. Personally, I would suggest getting it cleaned up and running safely and then drive it and see whether you like it or not. If yes, then do some more. If no, sell it. I would resist the temptation to take it apart and dig too deep. Do things like....

-Thoroughly clean interior...remove seats, carpet, clean, reinstall.

- Drain, fill fuel tank. Go with ethanol free in my opinion.

-Get the engine turning and running. Change engine oil and filter. Pull valve cover and inspect camshaft, rockers, etc. Don't adjust anything. Search and you will find threads on reviving an engine that has been sitting for a long time.

- Pull the carb domes and carefully clean chambers (don't bend needles when you lift off piston), float bowls, etc. I suggest that you don't adjust anything. Be careful with the floats and the metal tabs they rest on. You don't want to change how those tabs are bent. Clean the needle jets and chokes. No need to remove the carbs from the manifold though. Add dampening oil (lots of places online to help you determine how much and what weight).

- Change plugs, and make sure cap and rotor are okay.

- Make sure the small vacuum hoses that connect to the timing advance work.

- With luck, the above will get it running.

After you get it running, tackle other things before driving.

-Check timing, adjust.

- Change diff and transmission oil. 

- Flush, bleed clutch master and slave. I would be surprised if these work without replacing.

- Get brakes working. You are probably going to need to replace / rebuild everything. I would be surprised if you don't need to replace master cylinder, front calipers, and rear drum cylinders. Hard to predict whether the booster will work but you can drive without it. Just watch out for vacuum leaks caused by defective booster. If booster is broken, until you get a new one you can block off the vacuum line.

- Check suspension for safety...ball joints, tie rod ends. Grease both until new flows out.

- Flush antifreeze and make sure the car warms up and maintains temp. If not, dig in a bit. I would be surprised if the radiator isn't clogged. Basic stuff though- radiator, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, temp sender for gauge. While you are at it, replace water hoses in engine bay. I would wait on the heater hoses until all of the above is working well, or until you really want to frustrate yourself.

- Buy new tires, balanced, alignment (just front toe on these cars when stock).

Above should get you a car that you can drive and decide whether Z's are your bag or not.

One thing to watch for though. Usually cars that get put away get put away for a reason. A blown head gasket is a common reason. Hopefully not but just watch out as you get the thing running and driving.

I am sure I left off lots of things that others can help fill in. I guess my key suggestion though is ...... don't start taking it apart and don't adjust stuff until you determine that something is out of adjustment.

 

 

 

Edited February 5, 2019 by jonathanrussell
added fuel tank line

[siteunseen]

I guessed that!  Auburn sticker on a 240Z, pharmacist.

I know a guy in Vinemont that knows Zs inside and out.  Whether he'll work on it is a different story though.  He has a paint shop off a main highway, 157 maybe???  Anyway he's full of knowledge and likes to talk about Zs when he has time.  If you do call him tell him you got his number from the guy that bought his red with white interior '72.  Ray at Rays Restorations, 256-399-1077.

If you haven't yet, don't try and crank it.  You'll just crud up the fuel system.  A 2 gallon gas jug will work and bypass the old fuel in the tank.  Those older SUs are better to me, the float ears are the same length front and rear which makes set-up a lot easier.

I'm on here everyday and more than willing to help when I can.  Might ride over one day and try that "outlaws wine".  We have a good brew house here, Auburn boys too, Back Forty Beer.  You probably know them. 

Here's my OE 3 screw float lids.  Longer in the front for going uphill and accelerating, keeps the bowl from overflowing but is a PITA to set the floats.  I put two rear float bowl lids on mine and made life easier for a change.

EDIT: Just read Jonathon's post, great advice.  When you take the valve cover make sure the oil spray bar is good and healthy, not all loose or even worse broken.  Cover the valve train with motor oil.  take a picture of it too.  These guys can tell if you have a gnat's footprint on the cam.

Edited February 5, 2019 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

I bought my orange one in or around Cullman too.  Some guys at Alabama Mustang had it trying to get it running for some doctor that lived on Smith Lake.

EDIT:  They tried to fix it but couldn't so they bought it really cheap then I bought it from them.  They couldn't figure out the carbs and never got it running.

When I got it home...

 

Edited February 5, 2019 by siteunseen

[outlawswine]

I pulled the plugs and I've got a little ATF working in the cylinders right now. Gonna let it sit overnight and see how we look in the morning. Just trying to get it to where I can rotate the crank by hand. While I'm waiting on the ATF to do its thing, I took @siteunseen and @jonathanrussells advice and took a peek under the valve cover and snapped a few pics. 

Here is a link to the valve train pics:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TPUxPWytVQs9eWK47

Edited February 5, 2019 by outlawswine

[siteunseen]

Looks good to me.  I think I see where lobes were sitting on the rocker pads?  No big deal though, that'll wear right off when it's running.

Spray bar looks good, springs are all in place, you have a nice car from what I can tell.  That 'rats nest' of crap around the carbs will clean up nicely and look much better.  @Zup will be your new hero.  He has a '73 we all kinda claim because it has won so many awards while wearing a Classic Z Cars "club jacket".   

Jim's (Zup} '73...

 

Edited February 5, 2019 by siteunseen