KONI Sports for Classic Z's

[KONI Lee]

The KONI distributor in the UK is RFT in Mytchett, Surrey.  Ask for Trevor and tell him that Lee with KONI North America sent you. Although he cannot get the Datsun Z specific inserts, he can probably get the M48 x 1.5 using the part number 73.25.01.003.1 from Holland.

Performance Parts RFT

Email: tleigh@rftgroup.co.uk

Tel: 01252 494016

Unit One Mytchett Business Centre

57E Mytchett Road

Mytchett, Surrey, GU16 6EG

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, jonbill said:

Even when fully bottomed in the strut, the 1033 is going to be a couple of mm proud. I may be able to modify the KYB gland nut to fit with it, maybe not.

The gland nut does not seat on the tube, it seats on the top of the shock/insert.  So, when properly tightened there will be threads exposed on the gland nut.  Having the top of the shock/insert/cartridge stick out of the strut tube might not matter.

I think that the strut part number is stamped in to the bottom of the tube, or maybe on the casting that it is pressed in to.  Probably covered in rust and crud.  Not distinct.

[jonbill]

The gland nut does not seat on the tube, it seats on the top of the shock/insert.  So, when properly tightened there will be threads exposed on the gland nut.  Having the top of the shock/insert/cartridge stick out of the strut tube might not matter.
I think that the strut part number is stamped in to the bottom of the tube, or maybe on the casting that it is pressed in to.  Probably covered in rust and crud.  Not distinct.

Thanks, I'll have another look. I did find a casting number on the hub, but didn't think that was it.

[jonbill]

The KONI distributor in the UK is RFT in Mytchett, Surrey.  Ask for Trevor and tell him that Lee with KONI North America sent you. Although he cannot get the Datsun Z specific inserts, he can probably get the M48 x 1.5 using the part number 73.25.01.003.1 from Holland.
Performance Parts RFT
Email: tleigh@rftgroup.co.uk
Tel: 01252 494016
Unit One Mytchett Business Centre
57E Mytchett Road
Mytchett, Surrey, GU16 6EG

Thanks, Trevor has ordered them for me. Very quick and helpful. :thumbs:

[fyrst.z]

On 3/17/2020 at 1:08 PM, KONI Lee said:

If your car needs the M48 x 1.5 gland nut, then you have early ('70-'74.5) strut housings and thus need the 8641 1031Sport with the proper gland nut and a 42 mm OD insert diameter and 394 mm insert length. 

Thanks for the great clarity @KONI Lee. I got the Koni 8641 1031Sport yellow strut cartridges for my 240z (December 1970 production date). Installing the front passenger side now. Diameter is fine but they seem to sit a tad higher than the cartridges they are replacing (it's like there's an extra little shoulder) and I'm not able to get the strut gland nut to catch the threads inside the strut cartridge. Does anyone know if there is a trick I'm missing? Or, are different types of gland nuts that might account for this? I ask because the driver's side was also challenging but I did get the gland nut threaded on. However the glad nut seems like a slightly different design on the outside (it didn't occur to me to check the design of the the inside).

Thanks for any advice.

[Zed Head]

There are definitely different gland nuts that can affect thread engagement.  Some strut inserts/shocks come with a spacer that fits under the gland nut to get a proper fit.  Most of them come with their own gland nut that centers the top of the shock too, as it provides proper clamping force.  The gland nut fits like a cap over the top of the strut.  It is essentially an extension of the tube when it's all put together.  Think of it that way and you can probably make things work.

Don't forget to check the bottom of the strut tube also.  Crud/rust can build up in the bottom.  It wasn't really designed for the replaceable inserts.  They just happened to work well.

Edited July 6, 2020 by Zed Head

[Joseph@TheZStore]

Hello @fyrst.z, like Zed said, the gland nuts definitely are specific to the struts, and you should use the Koni gland nuts. If you have one side of the front that threads and the other side that doesn't, that definitely could be, also as Zed said, decades of dirt and oil that create a "spacer" down there, so check that as well. The only other options would be non-matching strut cartridge heights, which will be fairly easy to check, or damaged/modified/mismatching strut housings. Struts, whether Tokico, KYB, Koni, are different heights, and they all have different gland nuts to go with them. You show an image of a strut installed with what looks like a KYB gland nut, we assume you are not using those gland nuts on the Koni's.

When you're certain there isn't a buildup to scrape out of the bottom of the housing tubes (it isn't easy, unfortunately), and if then using the Koni gland nuts you are not able to torque them down to a 4mm gap, regardless of side, just give our sales technicians a call at (800)633-6331 or (714)639-2620, or email if you prefer at info@motorsportauto.com, and we'll get things figured out.

[fyrst.z]

3 hours ago, Joseph@TheZStore said:

Hello @fyrst.z, like Zed said, the gland nuts definitely are specific to the struts, and you should use the Koni gland nuts. If you have one side of the front that threads and the other side that doesn't, that definitely could be, also as Zed said, decades of dirt and oil that create a "spacer" down there, so check that as well. The only other options would be non-matching strut cartridge heights, which will be fairly easy to check, or damaged/modified/mismatching strut housings. Struts, whether Tokico, KYB, Koni, are different heights, and they all have different gland nuts to go with them. You show an image of a strut installed with what looks like a KYB gland nut, we assume you are not using those gland nuts on the Koni's.

When you're certain there isn't a buildup to scrape out of the bottom of the housing tubes (it isn't easy, unfortunately), and if then using the Koni gland nuts you are not able to torque them down to a 4mm gap, regardless of side, just give our sales technicians a call at (800)633-6331 or (714)639-2620, or email if you prefer at info@motorsportauto.com, and we'll get things figured out.

Thanks @Joseph@TheZStore and @KONI Lee. Your comments helped me a lot. I've cleaned the bottom of the strut housing (using a rag and long screw driver) and more importantly realized that I was trying to put the old strut gland nut back on rather than using the one that was supplied with the Koni's. Should have known better but should be golden now!

[Joseph@TheZStore]

37 minutes ago, fyrst.z said:

Thanks @Joseph@TheZStore and @KONI Lee. Your comments helped me a lot. I've cleaned the bottom of the strut housing (using a rag and long screw driver) and more importantly realized that I was trying to put the old strut gland nut back on rather than using the one that was supplied with the Koni's. Should have known better but should be golden now!

Hopefully that takes care of it, just make sure that when you torque them down, there is a 4mm or smaller gap between the housing top and under the gland nut flange. If anything doesn't seem right, just contact us directly. Thanks!

[jfa.series1]

A very big thanks for outstanding customer service from MSA and KONI! Like a few others, I could not get the gland nut to adequately thread into place because the shock was not seating properly. My struts are squeaky clean inside with no foreign debris. As recommended above, I contacted MSA about the issue. @Joseph@TheZStore quickly responded and identified a Nissan mfg. anomaly where the bottom cap on the strut has an internal shoulder. Chipped paint on the bottom of the new KONI shock confirmed the interference. MSA had modified gland nuts on hand for this problem and sent a pair to me at no cost. Note the machined internal relief shoulder on the gland nut on the right vs. stock on the left. The relief allowed the gland nut threads to fully engage and get the gap well under 4mm.  One front strut down this morning, one to go for tomorrow and then on to the rears.

Jim

[Zed Head]

Can you get a picture of the shoulder, just for fun?  I assume that it is visible.

[jfa.series1]

After I swabbed out the oil I could see the shoulder with a flashlight and feel it with a long tool. No fiber optic tool so no pics. Now its all back together and on to the other side. Might or might not find the same situation.