The way I modeled this was based off my own interpretation and I chose to place the flange on top to give more surface area support for the insulator as well as to let the bump stop seat all the way into the spring perch as it does in the stock setup. Given that the stock struts do not have a flange and are fine with the contact area they have I can see why the koni engineers would say either way is fine. I chose mostly based off the way the bump stop seats but if you have a different bump stop the results may vary.

 

I've had these installed for a few months now and have done a fair bit of driving and they have been wonderful!

I did mine as per the diagram on the right for exactly the reasons you mentioned - namely to provide more surface area at the top against the insulator.

lapriser was so kind to send me his 3D models.

I wanted to see how this setup looks like if you use the Insulated Spring Seat & Strut Mount Set from MSA.

 

 

It looks like a sleeve without the flange would help to move the bump stop further upwards.

Edited October 15, 20213 yr by JagoBlitz

@JagoBlitz...very interested in knowing how you end up liking the MSA strut mounts.

 

Also...which bump stops do you guys use? Most recently I used the KONI 7034950000 bump stops. They are the best I have tried and will use going forward.

 

 

Edited October 15, 20213 yr by jonathanrussell

Well, right now I am still gathering parts, I have not installed the MSA strut mounts yet.
But they seem to provide more damper travel (as advertised).

Thank you for the Koni bump stop part number. Is this foam or solid material?
I think these should be included in the damper kit.

Edited October 15, 20213 yr by JagoBlitz

They are a firm foam but way softer than Poly bump stops. 

 

On 10/15/2021 at 6:12 AM, JagoBlitz said:

lapriser was so kind to send me his 3D models.

I wanted to see how this setup looks like if you use the Insulated Spring Seat & Strut Mount Set from MSA.

 

 

It looks like a sleeve without the flange would help to move the bump stop further upwards.

Those diagrams are awesome... I started a convo on Facebook about this install. I got the Eibach Progressive Springs, Koni Yellows, and for the front the Adjustable Street Camber Kit from MSA. So weird mix of parts and I made it to this thread and this was all mega helpful. The street camber kit as an extra bushing that is designed to sit on top of the strut where the metal bushing from the Koni's goes... so I assume we just can exclude that? In the diagram I am attaching it is "Bushing #2227" 

On 4/7/2021 at 11:13 AM, lapriser said:

Hey guys,

I'm wondering if anyone has had any issues with the top nut stripping out or crossthreading?

I installed the strut with no issue which involved hand threading the supplied nylock nut until it hit the plastic locking section, then tightening by hand with a socket wrench. I realized I forgot to put the bump stop into the assembly and began unthreading the top not and it eventually froze up and would not move. After some creative clamping and a lot of force I was able to remove the top hat assembly but the threads and adjustment knob on the strut are destroyed. The adjustment knob does not move and the strut seems to have lost its dampening resistance.

I am a little baffled about how this could have happened so aggressively. I don't use nylock nuts usually and this one seemed very aggressive. Is this a common issue with nylocks?

 Curious did you have the spring compressed enough when removing the nut? I didn’t see this asked maybe I missed it?

2 hours ago, Daluvian said:

 Curious did you have the spring compressed enough when removing the nut? I didn’t see this asked maybe I missed it?

I have lowering springs so there really isn't any spring compression when the car is in the air or when the strut assemblies are not mounted.

Hi Guys, 

I bought a set of the Koni Sports from Z Store, and finally up to the point of installing them but it hasn't gone that smoothly. For the fronts I bought the 23-1031 (8641 1031SP1 on the Koni Box with a manufacture(?) date of 31/08/21) and i am not 100% sure what my front struts are out of (as i bought a second hand set, original length with GC coilovers and Tokico BZ3038's) but i am sure they are 240Z/early 260z. The rears went in all ok (well.. after dealing with a dent in the rim of one of my rear struts right on the thread courtesy of my powder coater).

The fronts i am having difficulty and it seems to echo the issues earlier in this thread. One front strut i can barely get a 1/4 turn on the gland nut before it bottoms out, at which point the underside of the gland nut to the strut measurement is 8.7mm, on the other side i can get it maybe a full turn, with the measurement being 8.2mm (kind of similar to previous posts). My Koni shocks have a small welded in spacer at the bottom which is about 4-5mm deep.. presumably to overcome issues with any welding beads inside the tube.. this seems to be very close to the additional clearance i need to get the gland nuts on properly. I have not seen mention of this little spacer in previous posts so i am not sure if its an early revision or something (i hope they are the right shocks!). Comparing the outgoing tokico's to these, the bottom spacer appears to be the cause

I am a little sceptical that the revised gland nut with the tapered inside edge will do much in this instance as in previous posts it seems to only give 2mm, and wondering if i can just lop 4mm off the bottom of this spacer thingy? i should still have what looks like a build up of weld just under the tube and above the spacer as a bit of a safety from breaching the tube.. can anyone forsee any issues with this (unsure how i go about cutting it.. hack saw i assume)

I am yet to contact MSA (purely because its still weekend over in the US - i am in Australia), but will do as well.. Just hoping someone else has come across the issue and a fix is simpler than waiting for more parts to arrive from the US.

Thanks

Kent

 

Edited September 26, 20222 yr by khughes

Yours does not look the picture in post #1 or on MSA's web site.  You said that you bought them from "Z Car"?  Is that a typo?  It's Motor Sport Auto or theztore.com. 

There's no projection on the bottom in their pictures.  The part number seems different too, 29-2021.  Not sure if that has meaning.

 

 

I am unsure if these are the right part for you or not, but if I was going to trim them, I would pull a flap disc on a 4" grind and burn them down to what I wanted...